i  ;*  i--,  J 


TIIC  AiMERICAiV  FRONTIER  AND  THE  SAGUENAY, 


EMBBACINQ 

FULL  AND  ACCURATE  VIEWS  AND  DESCR[PTIONS 


jyOFALL  TH£  MONUMENTS,  CITIES.  RUINS,  LAKES,  FALLS,  RAPIDS,  AND 

asi>nnrm^n*.«-«-.  _ _  * 


TERRITORIAL  DEPENDENCIES  TO  THE  CROWN 
OF  GREAT  BRITAIN: 


ALSO, 


A  VIEW  OP  r«G  AMERICAN  BORDER  ALONG  THE  SHORES  OP  LAKE  ERIE 
AND  ROTH  BVNKS  OF  THE  NIAGARA  RIVER,  LAKE  ONTARIO, 

AND  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE  : 

LIKEWISE, 


A  PICTURESQUE  PILGRIMAGE  UP  THE  REMOTE  AND  SUBLIME 
Saguenay  river  situated  in  the 
Hudson’s  bay  territory 


WHICH  IS  THE  largest  AND  MOS'r  ELABORATELY  FINISHED  MOVING  PAINT- 
ING  EVER  EXECUTED  BV  MAN  IS  EXPLAINED  IN  AN 


OP 


A  few  of  the  most  Prominent  Objects  and  Places  exhibited  on  the 

Mirror. 


City  of  Buffalo, 

Erie  Canal, 

Grand  and  Navy  Island) 
Chippewa  Battle  Ground, 

Niagara  Falls, 

Suspension  Bridge, 

The  Great  Whirlpool, 

Queenston  Heights,  and 
Brock’s  Monument, 

Lewiston  &  Queerlslon 

Fort  Niagara,  and  Massasauga, 

Lake  Ontario, 

Welland  Canal 
Port  Hope  in  a  storm 
Hamilton,  Toronto,  Coburg,  and 
Kingston, 

Thousand  Islands, 

Brockville  by  moonlight, 
Ogdensburg  and  Prescott, 

Fort  Wellington,  Windmill  Point 
The  Great  Rapids  of  Gallop, 
Long  Sault,  Cedar,  and  Lachine 
The  Ship  Canals, 

La  Chine 
Montreal, 

Lake  St.  Peter, 

Three  Rivers, 

Batiscan  Girondincs,' 

De  Chambault,  Cape  Sante, 
Cape  Rouge,  by  moonlight 
Wolf’s  Cove, 

Plains  of  Abraham, 


City,  and  Citadel  of  Quebec, 
BeaUport 

Montmorenci  Falls. 

Villages  of  Lochgerrien, 

St.  Anns  and  Luceann, 

Mount  Ton, 

Cape  Tourment 
St.  Paul’s  Bay, 

Goose  Cape  and  Cape  Eagle, 

Great  Mai  Bay, 

Pro  Keag  by  moonlight 
The  Jesuit’s  Archway, 

St.  Katharine’s  Bay, 

Tadousac  Harbor, 

Thence  up  the  Saguenay, 
fete  De  Boule  Rock, 

The  Outlet  of  the  Marguerite  River, 
St.  Louis  Islands 
Cape  Eternity, 

Trinity  Cove, 

Cape  Trinity, 

The  Three  Profiles, 

Statue  Point, 

Ha  Ha,  or  Grand  Bay, 

'I’he  Chicoutimi  Channel, 

The  Village  of  the  Mills  in  a  snow 
Storm, 

Chicoutimi 

Boats  on  ice  propelled  by  wind. 

The  head  of  navigation  at  the  foot  of 
the  great  Portage  or  Rapids,  near 
Lake  St.  John. 


AND  HISTORICAL  VIEW 


OF 


OF  THE 


THE  NIAGARA,  St.  LAWRENCE  AND  SAGUERNAY  RIVERS 

EMBRACING  THE  ENTIRE  RANGE 


OF 


OF  THE 

UNITED  STATES  &  CANADIAN 


FROM 

LAKE  ERIE  TO  THE  ATLANTIC, 


NEW  YORK : 

Printed  by  George  F.  Bunce,  321  Pearl  Street. 


1850. 


Entered  according  lo  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  jcar  1819, 


BY  WILLIAM  BURR, 


In  t'le  Clerk’s  office  of  tho  District  Court  of  the  United  Stales  in  and  for  the  Southern  Di.-Uicl 

of  New-York. 


REMARKS, 


In  explanation  of  so  vast  a  range  of  scenery  as  is  embraced 
in  the  Mammoth  Moving  Mirror,  the  proprietor  proffers  his 
affirmation  in  testimony  of  its  being  a  true  and  faithful  delinea¬ 
tion,  every  object  from  the  commencement  to  the  termination 
of  the  pictorial  journey  being  carefully  drawn,  colored  and 
tinted  on  the  spot.  Confiding  in  the  appreciation  of  the  impar¬ 
tial  public,  he  trusts  they  will  not  confound  this  truthful  piece 
of  arUstic  mosaic,  with  the  numerous  deceptions  misnamed 
Panoramas  which  flood  the  country,  and  he  feels  confident  the 
general  expectation  will  be  realized.  In  many  instances  Pano¬ 
ramas  are  the  temporary  offspring  of  a  few  hours  copying  from 
old  prints  and  drawings,  while  the  objects  in  them  are  provoked 
to  such  desperation,  at  such  gross  buffoonery  and  farcical  des- 
tortion,  that  they  appear  to  break  out  in  open  rebellion  of  all 
pictorial  authority. 

The  Public  may  rely  on  the  Accuracy  of  the  views  portrayed 
on  the  Colossal  Moving  Mirror.  They  Were  Not  taken  on  a 
Flying  Trip  in  a  steamboat,  but  the  proprietor,  accompanied  by 
the  Celebrated  Artist,  Mr.  E.  P.  BARNES,  of  New  York  City, 
Walked  the  whole  Distance  from  Lake  Erie,  along 
THE  Banks  of  the  Niagara  River  to  Lake  Ontario, 
making  Full  Drawings  of  the  Entire  Range  of  Scenery, 
many  limes  encountering  great  peril,  being  eompelled  to  climb 
and  draw  each  other  up  the  sides  of  steep  rugged  Cliffs,  which 


IV. 


in  some  places  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Great  Whirlpool^  arc 
several  hundred  feet  above  the  yawning  abyss  at  their  base. 
Arriving  at  Lake  Ontario,  the  proprietor  fitted  up  a  vessel,  and 
with  pilot,  crew,  and  all  necessary  conveniences  for  the  Artists, 
proceeded  to  complete  the  drawings  of  this  stupendous  Work  of 
Art,  which  occupied  about  two-thirds  of  the  year — a  second 
vessel  having  been  chartered  at  Quebec — arriving  at  the  head 
of  the  Saguenay  late  in  autumn — ending  the  voyage  amid  the 
snow  and  ice  which  so  abound  in  that  region. 

Numerous  articles  appeared  in  the  Canadian  Press  during  the 
time  the  proprietor  was  engaged  in  making  his  drawings,  one  of 
which,  from  the  Quebec  Mercury,  July  10,  1848,  is  here  copied, 
for  the  purpose  of  substantiating  the  truthfulness  as  well  as  im¬ 
mense  labor  and  cost  of  procuring  the  drawings — they  alone 
having  actually  cost  more  than  many  of  the  paintings  styled 
“  Panoramas,”  when  finished. 

“We  are  highly  gratified  in  being  able  to  inform  the  citizens 
of  Quebec  and  the  public  generally,  that  Mr.  W.  Burr,  from  the 
city  of  New  York,  (accompanied  by  superior  artists,)  has,  after 
a  long  and  dangerons  passage  of  several  months  through  the 
great  Western  Lakes,  Niagara  River,  liakes  Ontario  and  St. 
Jjawrence,  arrived  in  this  city.  They  have  made  drawings  and 
sketches  through  the  whole  route,  and  have  chartered  a  schooner, 
fitted  her  out  with  stores  and  suitable  guides,  and  are  continuing 
their  way  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Saguenay,  will  ascend 
that  wild,  picturesque,  and  noble  river,  and  from  thence  continue 
down  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Gulf  and  Atlantic,  which  will 
complete  their  wliole  line  of  sketches,  forming  one  continuous 
view  ;  the  whole  distance  making  nearly  2,00{'  miles.  These 
sketches  are  being  made  for  the  purpose  of  completing  a  Grand 
Mammoth  Painting,  which  is  intended  to  exceed  in  extent,  style, 
execution.  &c.,  anything  of  the  kind  ever  exhibited  in  America. 
This  is  precisely  what  is  wanted  to  bring  Canadian  scenery  into 
notice.  'I’ourists  are  not  generally  aware  of  the  many  scenic 
attractions  Canada  presents,  and,  consequently,  (we  presume) 
visit  and  revisit  hacknied  localities  faute  Ic  mieux.  We  wish 
Mr.  Burr  every  succe.ss,  and  cn  avani  courier  of  his  Painting, 
can  assure  our  friends  of  the  States,  that  a  treat  is  in  store  for 
them.” 


PICTOEIAL  TOUR. 


The  scenery  selected  for  illustration  on  this  mirror  commences 
on  Lake  Erie  and  includes  the  Niagara  river  with  its  stupendous 
cataract,  Lake  Ontario,  the  mighty  St,  Lawrence,  and  the  dark, 
wild,  and  mysterious  Saguenay.  In  addition  to  the  attractions 
which  the  gorgeous  and  romantic  scenery  on  this  route  possesses 
for  the  lover  of  the  beautiful  and  picturesque  ;  the  painting  ex¬ 
hibits  nearly  the  entire  boundary  line  between  the  United  States 
and  Canada ;  including  the  entire  range  of  scenery  on  both 
shores  from  liake  Erie  to  the  Gulf  of  the  St.  Lawrence  near  the 
Atlantic  Ocean,  and  teems  throughout  with  historical  associa¬ 
tions  of  the  highest  interest.  The  extent  of  country  embraced 
in  this  painting  being  so  vast,  and  being  truly  a  terra  incognita 
to  many  of  our  readers,  a  brief  geographical  description  of  the 
great  Lakes,  forming  the  source  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  a 
slight  sketch  of  the  United  Provinces  of  Upper  and  liOwer  Can¬ 
ada,  will  not  be  deemed  inappropriate,  before  describing 
the  subjects  as  they  appear  on  the  Canvas. 

THE  LAKES. 

The  most  striking  peculiarity  of  this  part  of  North  America 
is  its  immense  lakes,  which,  in  respect  to  depth  and  extent  of 
surface  have  no  equal  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  Lake  Superior 
is  the  largest  of  these  inland  seas  and  without  exception  the  most 
extensive  body  of  fresh  water  in  the  world;  being  about  1,500 
miles  in  circumference.  In  shape  it  is  an  irregular  crescent,  and 
its  length  is  nearly  400  miles.  Its  surface  is  elevated  625  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  and  its  ?nea7i  depth  is  900  feet.  More 
than  two  hundred  and  twenty  rivers  and  streams  pour  into  it 
their  waters  from  the  surrounding  mountains. 


6 


Lake  Huron,  the  second  in  magnitude  of  this  great  chain  of 
lakes,  receives  the  surplus  water  of  Lake  Superior  by  St.  Mary’s 
Channel.  Its  circumference  is  supposed  to  be  nearly  1,000 
miles  and  the  depth  is  estimated,  at  from  900  to  1,000  feet. 
Near  its  north-western  point  a  narrow  strait  connects  it  with 
Lake  Michigan  which  is  entirely  included  in  the  United  States’ 
Boundary.  By  the  Lake  of  St.  Clair  and  the  Detroit  River, 
liake  Huron  communicates  with  Lake  Erie  whose  circumfer¬ 
ence  is  about  600  miles.  This  in  a  commercial  point  of  view, 
ranks  as  the  most  important  of  the  whole  chain  of  lakes ;  pos¬ 
sessing  the  most  extensive  channels  of  inland  communication 
in  the  world.  By  means  of  the  Erie  Canal  it  connects  with  the 
Hudson  River  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean  ;  and  by  the  Ohio 
Canal,  with  the  Oliio  and  Mississippi  Rivers  and  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  The  Welland  Canal,  also,  on  the  Canadian  side  forms 
a  ship  channel  6ar  vessels  to  pass  through  to  Lake  Ontario,  and 
thence  by  the  River  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Ocean. 

CANADA. 

This  Province  derives  its  name  from  the  Iroquois  word  Kaii- 
ata,  which  signifies  a  village  or  collection  of  huts.  It  extends  from 
Gaspe  in  the  East,  to  Sandwich  at  the  end  of  Lake  Erie,  in  the 
West.  On  the  West,  its  shores  are  washed  by  Lake  Huron,  on 
the  South-East  by  Lakes  Erie  and  Ontario,  and  by  the  St. 
Lawrence  as  far  as  the  boundary  of  the  45th  parallel  of  latitude. 
From  thence  the  great  River  St.  Lawrence  flows  through  the 
centre  of  the  Province,  and  contributes  as  a  votive  offering  to 
the  Ocean,  half  the  fresh  water  on  the  surface  of  the  Globe! 

The  above  brief  description,  will,  it  is  presumed,  be  sufficient 
to  convey  an  adequate  idea  to  the  untravelled  spectator  of  the 
great  inland  seas  of  America  which  form  the  source  of  the 
mighty  river  whose  shores  this  moving  mirror  illustrates.  We 
beo-  leave  to  call  the  attention  of  those  who  are  about  to  accom- 
pany  us  through  these  romantic  regions,  to  some  historical  and 
statistical  particulars  connected  with  the  various  spots  depicted, 
which  will  add  much  to  the  interest  of  the  pictorial  journey. 

THE  CITY  OF  BUPFALO 

Is  beautifully  situated  at  the  eastern  end  of  Lake  Erie  and 


7 


near  the  entrance  of  the  Niagara  River.  The  harbor  which  is 
of  immense  capacity  and  thoroughly  secure,  is  formed  by  a 
creek  which  crosses  the  southern  portion  of  the  city  and  is 
separated  from  the  lake  by  a  peninsula.  A  Breakwater  1,500 
feet  in  length  projects  into  the  lake,  at  the  extremity  of  which  is 
situated  a  substantial  Lighthouse. 

Sixty  years  ago  the  Seneca  Nation  owned  the  entire  Western 
portion  of  the  State  of  New  York,  and  the  right  of  pre-emption 
belonged  to  the  State  of  Massachusetts.  Oliver  Phelps  pur¬ 
chased  this  right  in  1787,  and  in  June,  1788,  he  met  the  Senecas 
at  Buffalo  and  concluded  a  treaty  by  which  they  conveyed  to 
him  the  territory  lying  between  the  pre-emption  line  and  the 
Genesee  river  and  a  strip  of  land  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river, 
twelve  miles  wide  and  about  twenty  miles  in  depth  from  its 
mouth.  This  acquisition  is  now  known  as  Phelp’s  and  Gor¬ 
ham’s  purchase.  At  this  time  we  have  no  records  of  any  white 
man  inhabiting  this  region.  La  Rochefaucold  Liancourt,  a 
French  nobleman  visited  this  place,  then  known  as  Lake  Erie 
in  1795,  and  speaks  of  an  Inn,  where  he  was  obliged  to  sleep 
on  the  floor  in  his  clothes,  and  in  which  there  was  neither  “fur¬ 
niture,  refreshment,  rum,  candles,  or  milk.”  The  village  rapidly 
rose  into  consequence  a  short  time  after  this,  when  it  was  sud¬ 
denly  doomed  to  destruction.  On  30th  December,  1813,  the 
British,  to  avenge  the  burning  of  Kingston  crossed  the  river  at 
Black  Rock  and  took,  and  burnt  it,  in  spite  of  the  gallant  resist¬ 
ance  offered  by  the  inhabitants.  So  complete  was  the  destruc¬ 
tion  that  only  two  dwellings  were  left  unconsumed.  The 
rebuilding  of  the  place  was  not  commenced  until  1815.  The 
population  in  1811  was  estimated  at  500;  in  February,  1848, 
it  was  carefully  enumerated  and  found  to  be  over  40,000,  so 
that  in  1850  it  will  probably  contain  50,000  souls.  The  act 
incorporating  the  City  of  Buffalo  was  passed  April  20th,  1832  ; 
but  it  may  date  its  great  and  increasing  prosperity  from  the  com¬ 
pletion  of  the  Erie  Canal  in  1825.  Though  but  comparatively 
a  brief  space  of  time  has  elapsed  since  the  first  settlement  took 
place ;  its  commerce  and  consequent  opulence  has  increased  to 
such  a  degree  that  it  may  be  confidently  predicted  that  Buffalo 
is  destined  to  be  one  of  the  greatest  cities  of  the  Union.  She 
well  merits  the  appellation  of  the  “  Queen  City  of  Ihe  Lakes'^ 

Having  completed  our  view  of  Buffalo,  we  must  take  leave  of 


8 


the  beautiful  lake  and  enter  the  renowned  Niagara  river,  which 
is  the  outlet  of  Lake  Erie  ;  and  instead  of  sailing  down  the  river 
and  viewing  one  shore  only,  we  will  land  at  Fort  Erie  on  the 
Canadian  shore  and  walk  along  the  banks  the  whole  length  of 
the  river,  thirty-three  miles,  which  will  bring  us  to  Lake 
Ontario.  By  adopting  this  method  we  gain  an  important 
point,  which  enables  the  spectator  to  view  both  the  American 
and  Canadian  shores  with  the  beautiful  river  flowing  between 
them,  and  all  embraced  in  one  view.  It  is  true,  the  walk  wdll 
be  somewhat  lengthy,  and  in  many  places  we  shall  be  compelled 
to  encounter  severe  fatio-ue  and  imminent  dangfer.  Sometimes 
descending,  at  other  times  climbing  the  rugged  sides  of  cliffs  from 
two  to  five  hundred  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  clinging 
to  shrubs  or  twigs,  and  assisting  each  other  from  spots  where 
the  foot  will  hardly  find  a  resting  place  on  slippery  iflnnacles 
above.  Remember  while  performing  these  feats  we  are  often 
hanging  over  the  wild  and  roaring  rapids.  But  there  is  no  other 
way  of  viewing  the  Niagara  river  with  its  picturesque  and 
romantic  scenery.  For  the  reader  must  bear  in  mind  that  no 
steamboat  or  other  sailing  craft,  can  or  dare  venture  to  descend 
the  angry  stream  farther  than  Chippewa  landing,  which  is 
only  twenty-one  miles  from  Buffalo.  We  shall  of  course  suffer 
the  penalties  of  a  hazardous  enterprise ;  and  pain,  danger  and 
fatigue.  And  even  if  we  had  come  all  the  way  from  Europe  to 
view  the  natural  phenomena  of  this  extraordinary  river,  the 
novelty  and  grandeur  would  be  sufficient  inducement  for  the 
voyage. 

FORT  ERIE— 

Now  a  mass  of  ruins— at  the  foot  of  the  lake  and  immediately 
opposite  to  Buffalo,  now  comes  in  full  view.  It  was  captured 
by  tile  Americans,  July  3d,  1814.  A  very  strong  fortification 
belonging  to  the  United  States  Government,  on  a  rising  ground 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  North  of  the  City  of  Buffalo,  and  half 
way  to  Black  Rock,  is  now  before  the  eye,  at  which  place 
there  is  an  extensive  stone  pier  or  dam,  affording  immense  water 
power  and  at  the  same  time  serving  as  a  feeder  to  the  Erie  Canal. 
A  Steam  Ferry-Boat  runs  from  Black  Rock  to  the  village  of 
Waterloo  on  the  opposite  shore  of  Canada.  'Fhe  Erie  Canal, 
crowded  with  boats  containing  the  rich  produce  of  the  Western 


9 


Prairies,  mn  parallel  with  and  at  a  short  distance  from  the  banks 
of  the  Niagara  river.  It  is  in  view  from  Buffalo  to  Towna- 
wanda,  nineteen  miles,  and  forms  a  pleasing  and  animated  fea¬ 
ture  in  the  landscape,  especially  as  its  surface  is  six  feet  higher 
than  the  river  ;  caused  by  the  dam  at  Black  Rock. 

THE  NIAGARA  RIVER, 

Thirty-three  miles  long,- is,  at  Fort  Erie  about  a  mile  wide. 
It  passes  through  a  country  of  the  most  fertile  and  at  the 
same  time  of  the  wildest  and  most  romantic  character,  and 
in  its  short  and  rapid  course  presents  the  sublime  spectacle 
of  all  the  superabundant  waters  of  the  great  lakes  rushing 
along  its  narrow  channel  in  one  immense  body,  in  its  way 
to  join  the  Ocean.  The  first  vessel  that  ever  navigated  in¬ 
land  seas  of  America,  was  built  by  La  Salle,  a  Frenchman,  in 
1678,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  creek  (supposed  to  be  the  Cayuga,) 
six  miles  above  the  Falls.  After  many  unsuccessful  attempts 
the  vessel  which  was  of  sixty  tons  burden,  ascended  the  current 
into  Lake  Erie  by  the  combined  aid  of  tow-lines  and  sails  on  7th 
August,  1779.  They  sailed  through  a  lake  to  which  La  Salle 
gave  the  name  of  St.  Clair,  and  after  encountering  a  violent 
storm  in  Lake  Huron,  they  passed  into  Lake  Michigan  and 
landed  at  the  mouth  of  Green  Bay.  He  sent  back  the  vessel 
laden  with  rich  furs,  valued  at  60,000  livres,  in  charge  of  the 
pilot  and  five  men  ;  but  they  never  reached  the  Niagara,  and 
were  supposed  to  have  foundered  in  Lake  Huron.  The  sloop 
Detroit  of  seventy  tons  built  in  1796,  was  the  first  vessel  bearing 
the  American  Flag  upon  Lake  Erie ;  and  in  1818  the  first 
steamboat  Walk  in  the  Water”  was  built  at  Black  Rock ;  at 
which  time  the  whole  number  of  vessels  on  the  upper  lakes  con¬ 
sisted  of  thirty  sail. 

Descending  the  Niagara  we  came  to  Grand  Island,  belonging 
to  the  United  States  ;  a  splendid  tract  of  land  covered  with  noble 
forest  trees.  The  white  oak  is  here  considered  to  be  of  superior 
quality  for  ship-building. 

CHIPPEWA 

Is  twenty  miles  below  Buffalo  and  two  miles  above  the 
Falls  ;  it  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  a  creek,  which  is  navigable 
about  eight  miles,  to  the  Welland  Canal.  This  village  is  noted 


10 


for  the  sanguinary  battle  which  was  fought  on  5th  July,  1814, 
on  the  plains  a  short  distance  from  the  landing.  The  American 
forces  were  commanded  by  Major  General  Brown,  the  English 
by  Major  General  Riall,  who  was  defeated  with  considerable 
loss.  The  night  before  the  battle,  the  American  army  crossed 
over  the  bridge  which  is  shown  in  the  foreground  of  this  'paint¬ 
ings  and  encamped  by  the  old  shattered  house.  Almost  the  en¬ 
tire  ground  where  this  desperate  and  bloody  battle  was  fought, 
is  depicted  on  the  Canvas.  One  of  the  corner  posts  of  this  house 
was  carried  away  by  a  cannon  shot  fired  by  the  patriots  or 
sy'mpathisers  while  in  possession  of  Navy  Island,  which  is  di¬ 
rectly  opposite.  We  have  here,  the  celebrated  ^Slater  House,  in 
which  a  man  was  killed  by  a  cannon  shot  fired  by  the  same 
force,  whilst  lying  in  bed.  Many  shots  were  fired  through  this 
house  and  barn,  by  the  soi-disant  patriots  although  it  was  well 
known  that  a  quiet  and  respectable  family  occupied  it.  Also 
the  ruins  of  the  English  Batteries  are  seen  and  the  abutments  of 
the  Bridge  which  crossed  the  Chippewa  Creek,  and  which  was 
destroyed  by  the  British  in  1814  to  prevent  the  Americans  from 
crossing.  A  railroad  extends  from  Chippewa  to  Q,ueenston,  a 
distance  of  ten  miles.  Steam-navigation  ends  at  Chippewa. 

NAVY  ISLAND, 

The  noted  fortress  of  the  Patriots  in  the  late  insurrection  of 
1837-8  lies  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Chippewa,  and  near 
Grand  Island,  but  is  inferior  to  the  latter  in  size  and  richness  of 
soil.  Below  this  and  at  Schlosser  landing  the  river  expands  to 
more  than  two  miles  in  width,  but  suddenly  contracts  to  less 
than  a  mile. 

Here  the  Great  Rapids  commence ;  the  current  increasing 
from  five  to  twenty  miles  per  hour.  Noted  as  the  Canadian  boat, 
men  are  for  their  intrepidity,  they  dare  not  venture  farther  down. 
Mrs.  Jamieson,  in  her  pleasing  work  on  Canada  thus  graphic¬ 
ally  describes  the  rapids,  “  The  whole  mighty  river  comes 
rushing,  over  the  brow  of  a  hill,  and,  as  you  look  up  it,  seems  as 
if  coming  down  to  overwhelm  you  ;  then  meeting  with  the  rocks 
as  it  pours  down  the  declivity,  it  boils  and  frets  like  the  breakers 
of  the  ocean.  Huge  mounds  of  water,  smooth,  transparent  and 
gleaming  like  an  emerald,  rise  up  and  bound  over  some  impedi¬ 
ment,  then  break  into  silver  foam,  which  leaps  into  the  air  in  the 
most  graceful  and  fantastic  forms.” 


11 


Here  the  noise  of  the  Falls  is  distinctly  heard,  resembling  the 
roar  of  the  sea  breaking  on  the  shore  ;  and  a  column  of  mist  is 
seen  hovering  over  the  rapid  stream  in  the  distance.  Below  the 
river  bends  to  the  East  and  is  divided  by  Iris  Island,  commonly 
called  Goat  Island,  leaving,  however,  by  far  the  greater  body  of 
water  on  the  Canadian  side.  This  island  which  divides,  and 
perhaps  adds  to  the  beauty  and  sublimity  of  the  Falls  is  three 
hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide,  and  is  covered  with  noble  forest 
trees  and  a  luxuriant  vegetation. 

This  island  extends  to,  and  forms  part  of  the  precipice,  thus 
dividing  the  cataract  into  two  distinct  falls.  Again,  the  smaller 
cascade,  is  divided  by  Prospect  Island  ;  so  that  the  Cataract  of 
Niagara  consists  of  the  British,  or  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  between 
the  Canadian  shore  and  Iris  Island  ;  the  Central  Fall,  between 
the  American  shore  and  Prospect  Island.  The  width  or  periph¬ 
ery  of  the  first  fall  is  about  seven  hundred  yards  ;  of  the  second; 
twenty  yards ;  and  of  the  third,  three  hundred  and  thirty  yards. 
And  the  whole  extent  of  the  Cataract,  including  Prospect  and 
Iris  Island,  is  rather  more  than  1,400  yards,  from  the  Canadian 
to  the  American  side.  The  perpendicular  descent  is  at  different 
points,  variously  estimated  from  one  hundred  and  fifty-eight  to 
one  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet.  The  largest  portion  of  the 
river  flows  in  an  almost  unbroken  sheet,  over  the  Horse  Shoe 
Fall. 

Many  attempts  have  been  made,  in  prose  and  verse,  by  the 
most  talented  writers  to  describe  the  Falls  of  Niagara  ;  but 
none  of  them  have  succeeded  in  expressing  that  overwhelming 
sense  of  the  presence  of  Omnipotence  and  the  soul-subduing 
awe  which  oppresses  the  mind  of  the  contemplative  spectator. 
In  fact,  words  are  insufficient  to  paint  this  great  and  wonderful 
work  of  the  Creator  of  all  things  :  — 

“  Here  speaks  the  voice  of  God  !  Let  man  be  dumb, 

Nor  with  his  vain  aspirings  hither  come  ; 

That  voice  impels  these  hollow-sounding  floods, 

And  like  a  presence  fills  the  distant  woods. 

These  groaning  rocks  th’  Almighty’s  finger  piled, 

F or  ages  here,  His  painted  bow  has  smiled  ; 

Marking  the  changes  and  the  chance  of  time — 

Eternal — beautiful — serene — sublime !” 

The  minds  of  all  who  behold  the  mighty  Cataract,  for  the  first 


12 


time,  are  agitated  by  a  variety  of  conflicting  emotions.  The 
thundering  sound  of  this  immense  volume  of  water  descending 
from  a  vast  height,  causes  a  palpable  concussion  of  the  air  ;  the 
ground  trembles  beneath  the  feet,  and  tlie  scene  conjures  up 
strange  phantoms  in  the  imagination.  Each  is  affected  according 
to  his  natural  temperament.  The  bold  and  ardent  youth,  hears  in 
the  voice  of  the  resistless  flood,  the  sounds  of  strife  and  battle — 
the  shout  of  the  victors  and  the  groans  of  the  dying.  The  poet 
beholds  visions  of  unearthly  beauty  in  the  wreathing  mist,  and 
music,  sweet  as  the  Harps  of  those  who  sing  before  the  throne 
of  the  Eternal,  salute  his  ear.  But  all  confess  a  feeling  of 
awe  and  veneration,  such  as  is  sometimes  felt  whilst  sailing  at 
night,  upon  the  trackless  ocean.  The  never-ceasing,  endless 
down-pouring  of  the  mighty  flood  enchains,  absorbs  all  the 
faculties  of  the  mind,  and  hours  pass  unheeded,  whilst  we  stand 
ruminating  o’er  its  mysteries.  The  cloudj'’  column  from  its 
sounding  urn  rises  by  night  and  day ;  the  covenant  rainbow 
o’er  its  glowing  brow  shines  ever  in  the  sun  ;  and  when  the 
moon’s  unclouded  radiance  softens  all  the  scene,  still  gleams  the 
bow  of  promise  there,  lifting  our  thoughts  from  Earth  to  Hea¬ 
ven,  and  waking  memories  full  of  sweet  harmonies,  as  vesper 
hymtis  from  some  white  convent  in  the  distant  hills  ! 

In  plain  matter  of  fact  parlance — it  is  almost  impossible  to 
form  a  conception  of  the  tremendous  volume  of  water  passing 
by  the  Niagara  river  over  the  Falls;  yet,  below  Montreal,  the 
stream  of  the  St.  Lawrence  which  is  a  continuation  of  Niagara, 
is  twice  as  great  as  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Falls  ;  and  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  the  volume  of  fresh  water  which  the 
great  river  of  Canada  rolls  towards  the  sea  is  perhaps  more  than 
equal  to  the  aggregate  of  all  the  rivers  of  the  Atlantic  coast 
from  the  Gulf  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico;  in¬ 
cluding  even  the  Mississippi  which  some  writers  have  gone  so 
far  as  to  name  the  “  Father  of  Rivers.”  In  a  word  the  whole 
region  drained  by  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  one  of  great  lakes,  num¬ 
berless  fountains,  and  deep  and  rapid  rivers,  never  exhausted  by 
the  sun.  It  has  been  estimated  by  Dr.  Dwight  that  28,359  tons 
of  water  are  precipitated  over  the  Cataract  per  second. 

There  are  many  objects  of  interest  connected  with  the  Falls, 
which  can  be  merely  enumerated  in  this  pamphlet.  At  the  foot 
of  the  Canadian  Fall,  a  ledge  of  rock  leads  into  a  cavern  behind 


13 


the  sheet  of  water,  called  the  “  Cavern  of  the  Winds  ”  The 
darkness  that  surrounds  it,  and  the  strong  wind  blowing  the 
spray  over  the  intruders,  render  this  a  difficult  adventure  for 
those  not  possessed  of  strong  nerves.  The  whole  region  about 
the  Falls,  especially  below,  is  unique  and  full  of  points  of  history 
and  wild  romance.  In  the  immediate  neighborhood,  the  tourist 
should  visit  Niagara  Village,  the  “  Burning  Springs”  on  the 
Canada  side,  Lundy’s  Lane  Battle  Ground,  and  the  “Bellevue 
Fountain”  on  the  American  shore.  That  parties  visiting  the 
Falls  should  have  the  means  of  viewing  them  in  every  possible 
manner,  and  to  add  to  the  excitement  of — this  already  exciting 
spectacle — a  small  steamboat  named  the  “Maid  of  the  Mist” 
carries  a  living  freight  of  delighted,  and,  we  may  add  fear- 
stricken  passengers,  along  the  base  of  the  American  and  Cana¬ 
dian  Falls,  to  be  drenched  with  the  spray  of  the  descending 
waters — a  shower-bath  on  a  gigantic  scale  !  Really,  as  we  stand 
on  the  Canadian  shore  and  look  down  a  chasm  of  near  two  hun¬ 
dred  feet  and  behold  this  audacious  little  craft  loaded  with  human 
beings,  rolling  and  pitching  in  the  white-capped  surges  and  close 
to  the  base  of  the  great  Cataract ;  at  one  moment,  completely 
enveloped  in  clouds  of  mist — the  ne.xt,  breaking  into  view,  sur¬ 
rounded  by  playful  rainbows — we  wonder  at  the  temerity  of 
those,  who  would  incur  such  risk  for  the  mere  pleasure  of  en¬ 
joying  a  new  sensation. 

On  the  American  side,  and  just  above  the  Cataract  is  the 
pretty  village  of  Niagara  Falls,  which  was  laid  out  in  1805  by 
Judge  Porter,  who  is  the  principal  proprietor.  Here  the  Cata¬ 
ract  House,  delightfully  situated  on  the  brink  of  the  rapids,  offers 
excellent  accommodation  for  travellers  whilst  sojourning  at  the 
Falls,  On  the  Canada  side,  the  City  of  the  Falls— and  Clifton 
Village,  a  salubrious  and  pleasant  retreat  offer  great  attractions 
to  those  in  search  of  health.  At  the  latter  place  the  celebrated 
and  elegant  “Clifton  House,”  with  its  triple  colonnade  looms  up 
in  the  foreground;  its  numerous  guests  enjoying  a  full  view  of 
the  splendid  Cataract  from  the  balconies.  The  road  passing  in 
front  of  this  hotel  leads  directly  to  the  battleground  of  “  Lundy’s 
Lane.”  This  battle  was  one  of  the  most  bloody  conflicts  that  oc¬ 
curred  during  the  last  war.  The  gallant  General  Scott,  who  has 
lately  gathered  fresh  laurels  in  Mexico,  participated  in  the  action. 
General  Rial!  of  the  English  army  was  captured  and  the  posses- 


14 


sioti  of  the  battle  ground  was  stubbornly  contested  until  near 
midnight,  when  1,700  men  being  either  killed  or  wounded,  the 
conflicting  armies,  as  if  by  mutual  consent  ceased  the  deadly 
strife,  and  the  bloody  field  remained  in  the  possession  of  the 
dead  and  dying. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  SUSPENSION  BRIDGE. 

We  now  approach  the  whirlpool  rapids,  across  whose 
whirling  vortex  is  thrown  a  suspension  bridge  which  is  now 
in  view.  Its  wires  bind  the  two  nations  together  as  it  were, 
for  it  is  the  only  means  of  communication  with  the  opposite 
shore  that  ingenuity  could  possibly  devise.  The  cliffs  upon 
which  the  towers  rest  are  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  above  the 
river,  and  the  towers  are  fifty-two  feet  above  the  cliffs.  The 
bridge  is  upheld  by  nine  cables — four  on  the  North  and  five  on 
the  South  side — the  sag  of  the  cables  is  fifty  feet.  The  bridge 
is  only  a  mile  and  a  half  below  the  Falls  and  can  sustain  a 
weight  of  seventy  tons.  Mr.  Charles  Ellet  was  the  engineer 
and  is  one  of  the  proprietors.  When  the  drawings  were  made 
only  one  wire  was  thrown  across  the  chasm  and  the  proprietor 
of  the  Mirror  crossed  in  a  car  accompanied  by  the  engineer. 
The  length  of  the  span  is  762  feet.  The  whirlpool  is  confined 
and  pent  up  between  lofty  and  perpendicular  cliffs,  the  torrent, 
impatient  of  restraint  rushes  between  them  with  lightning  speed, 
until  suddenly  arrested  in  its  wild  career  by  a  bend  in  the  pre¬ 
cipitous  embankment  it  is  forced  completely  across  the  mouth  of 
the  outlet ;  again  and  again  it  is  drawn  from  its  course  and  car¬ 
ried  round,  until  with  frightful  and  supernatural  efforts,  it  at 
length  bursts  away  from  its  prison-house  and  dashes  forth  with 
loud  and  exulting  cries  to  mingle  its  waters  with  Lake  Ontario.* 
Trunks  of  trees,  timbers,  and  sometimes  dead  bodies  of  human 
beings  and  animals  are  drawn  into  its  vortex  and  whirl  round 
in  the  infernal  cauldron,  in  a  terrible  and  mystic  dance,  until 
chafed,  broken  up  and  decomposed  by  the  action  of  the  waters 
they  finally  disappear.  Half  a  mile  farther  down  the  stream,  a 
dark  chasm  in  the  precipice  forming  its  banks,  meets  our  views, 
This  is  known  as  the  “  Devil’s  Hole.”  A  small  stream  called 
the  Bloody  Run  empties  into  this  fearful  gulf.  It  is  memorable 


15 


as  the  scene  of  a  dreadful  tragedy.  In  1750  during  the  war 
with  the  French,  a  supply  of  provisions  and  ammunition  was 
sent  from  Fort  Niagara  to  Fort  Schlosser  escorted  by  100 
British  soldiers.  As  no  suspicion  was  entertained  of  any  hostile 
force  being  in  the  vicinity,  the  men  marched  listlessly  and  se¬ 
curely  by  the  side  of  the  ponderous  wagons.  On  arriving  at 
the  “  Devil’s  Hole,”  a  tremendous  volley  was  suddenly  poured 
into  them,  and  the  terrific  yells  of  several  hundred  Seneca  In¬ 
dians,  allies  of  the  French,  drowned  even  the  roar  of  Niagara. 
The  knife,  rifle  and  tomahawk  did  their  work  on  the  panic- 
stricken  escort  before  they  had  time  to  defend  themselves.  The 
red  warriors  finished  their  fearful  work  of  destruction,  by  throw¬ 
ing  over  the  embankment,  the  horses,  wagons  and  dying  soldiers. 
Only  two  of  the  British  party  escaped.  The  little  stream  ran 
crimson  with  human  gore  and  thus  obtained  its  cognomen. 
About  two  miles  below  this,  Hewletti’s  Cellar,  a  most  singular 
natural  excavation  in  the  rock,  fifteen  feet  below  the  top  of  the 
bank,  is  even  worthy  of  examination.  The  country  now  exhi¬ 
bits  a  series  of  abrupt  and  elevated  ridges,  called  Oueenston 
Heights,  the  banks  on  both  sides  reaching  an  altitude  of  seven 
hundred  feet,  supposed  to  have  been  the  site  of  the  Falls  in 
former  ages.  This  place  is  also  celebrated  as  being  the  scene  of 
a  deadly  contest  between  the  American  and  British  forces,  Octo¬ 
ber  13th,  1812.  The  Americans  were  commanded  by  General 
Solomon  Van  Rensclner,  and  both  the  troops  and  their  com¬ 
mander  distinguished  themselves  by  their  bravery,  though  finally 
overpowered  by  numbers.  General  Brock^  the  British  Com¬ 
mander  was  killed  while  leading  on  his  men.  A  monument 
erected  to  the  memory  of  this  brave  soldier,  who  was  respected 
even  by  his  foes,  stands  on  a  lofty  and  commanding  situation. 
It  is  now,  however,  shattered  and  defaced.  In  April,  1840,  some 
pitiful  scoundrel  attempted  to  destroy  it  with  gunpowder  and 
partially  succeeded.  This  monument,  and  the  tree  under  which 
General  Brock^  breathed  his  last,  are  prominent  objects  in  this 
Picture.  At  the  foot  of  the  height,  is  the  romantic  village  of 
Queenston,  where  the  Niagara  again  becomes  navigable.  On 
the  opposite  or  American  shore  is  Lewiston.  The  shores  now 
suddenly  descend  to  nearly  the  level  of  the  river,  and  a  verdant 
plain  extends  to  Lake  Ontario.  Still  further  down  you  approach 
the  town  of  Niagara.  It  contains  many  fine  buildings,  and  has 


16 


a  population  of  about  four  thousand  persons.  Here  is  a  large 
Dockyard,  with  Marine  Railway  and  Foundry,  where  have  been 
built  most  of  the  steamers,  now  navigating  Lake  Ontario.  It 
was  formerly  called  Newark,  was  burnt  by  the  American  forces 
under  General  McClure  in  1813. — Fort  George  is  seen  first 
above  the  town,  dismantled  and  in  ruins.  Fort  Massasauga 
pfuards  the  outlet  of  the  river  on  the  Canadian  side  and  on  the 
opposite  shore,  the  Americans  have  a  strong  stone  fort,  called 
Fort  Niagara^  and  between  these  grim  and  frowning  sentinels, 
we  enter  Lake  Ontario. 

LAKE  ONTARIO, 

Called  “  The  Beaiitifal^^'  which  is  500  miles  round,  llie 
length  measuring  three  times  the  breadth,  and  its  surface  is 
231  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Atlantic.  The  largest  ships 
may  sail  throughout  the  whole  extent.  In  many  parts  a  line 
of  six  hundred  feec  has  not  reached  the  bottom ;  owing  to 
this  great  depth  it  never  freezes  except  where  the  water  is  shal¬ 
low,  along  the  shores.  We  are  now  upon  the  sparkling  waves 
of  this  magnificent  lake,  and  steering  to  the  Westward  along 
the  Canadian  shore,  we  pass  Port  Dalhousie,  and  the  entrance 
of  the  Welland  Canal.  This  is  a  work  of  great  magnitude,  con¬ 
structed  in  the  most  substantial  manner  at  the  expense  of  the 
British  Government.  It  is  twenty-eight  miles  long ;  has  twenty- 
two  locks  of  granite  ;  and  ships  and  propellers  of  about  500  tons 
burthen,  can  thus  pass  and  repass  from  Lake  Ontario  to  Lake 
Erie. — Continuing  our  voyage  Westward,  we  approach  the  flour¬ 
ishing — 

CITY  OF  HAMILTON 

Which  contains  about  7,000  inhabitants,  standing  on  Burling¬ 
ton  Bay  and  situated  at  the  head  of  the  lake.  No  place  in 
Canada  is  more  distinguished  for  commercial  enterprize.  In 
the  rear  of  Hamilton  is  a  range  of  heights,  a  continuation  of  the 
ridge  from  Oueenston  Heights,  and  supposed  to  have  been  for¬ 
merly  the  boundary  of  Lake  Ontario  in  this  direction.  From 
this  point  is  seen  Dundrum  Castle^  the  seat  of  Sir  Allan  McNab, 
well  known  in  Canadian  history. — Our  course  now  takes  us 
down  the  lake  towards  the  North  East,  the  shores  exhibiting 
scenery  of  a  pleasant  and  pastoral  character ;  and  the  pretty 


17 


THE  CITY  OF  TORONTO 

Meets  oar  view.  It  is  distant  42  miles  from  Hamilton,  contains 
about  2,500  inhabitants  and  is  the  third  place  in  point  of  popu¬ 
lation  in  Canada.  It  is  delightfully  situated  on  a  bay  formed  by 
a  low  sandy  peninsular,  called  Gibraltar  Point,  and  is  the  only 
natural  harbor  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the  lake.  In  1793^ 
General  Simcoe  caused  this  harbor  to  be  surveyed,  and  founded 
the  town,  then  called  Little  York.  Two  Indians  of  the  Massa- 
sauga  Tribe  were  at  that  lime  in  quiet  possession,  and  myriads 
of  wild  fowl  crowded  the  waters  of  the  bay.  In  1813,  General 
Pike  with  a  small  body  of  Americans,  captured  and  burnt  it ; 
General  Pike  being  killed  by  the  explosion  of  a  magazine.  After 
the  peace  it  was  rebuilt,  and  the  name  was  changed  to  the  old 
I  Indian  word  Toronto — signifying  “  the  -place  of  Comicil.^’  It 
I  is  a  rapidly  rising  place,  thoroughly  English  in  appearance,  and 
well  paved  and  lighted  ;  the  houses  and  public  buildings  are 
constructed  in  a  substantial  and  elegant  manner. 


The  towns  of  Port  Hope,  Coburg  and  other  places  of  less 
note  are  now  shown  on  the  Painting,  and  Snake  Island  meets 
the  view,  situated  in  mid-channel.  As  you  approach  the  City 
of  Kingston  you  have  a  view  of  the  large  penitentiary  of  the 
Province. 

KINGSTON 

Presents  a  most  imposing  appearance  from  the  lake  ;  sur¬ 
rounded  by  martello  towers  and  fortifications  lately  erected  at 
immense  cost  by  the  British  Government.  It  is  pleasantly  situ¬ 
ated  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  180  miles  from  Hamilton,  on  the  site 
of  Fort  Frontenac^  which  was  first  fortified  by  the  French  in 
1672.  On  a  high  rocky  ridge,  forming  the  East  side  of  Navy 
Bay  and  extending  half  a  mile  into  the  lake  is  Fort  Henry ^  a 
place  of  great  strength,  commanding  the  city,  the  harbor  and  all 
the  approaches  to  them  both  by  land  and  water.  The  Rideau 
Canal^  a  most  important  work,  which  commences  at  B ytown 
the  River  Ottawa,  terminates  here,  afrer  a  course  of  over  100 
miles.  Steamboats  and  other  craft  were  by  these  means  enabled 
to  ascend  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  avoiding  the  several  rapids,  but 
the  completion  of  the  several  canals  around  the  rapids  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  has  deprived  the  Rideau  of  much  of  its  former 
business. 


3 


18 


Kingston  was  chartered  as  a  city  in  1840  and  now  contains 
over  12,000  inhabitants.  It  possesses,  besides  several  fine  public 
buildings  a  splendid  2'ovni  Hall  and  Market — and  next  to 
Quebec  and  Halifax  is  considered  the  strongest  military  position 
in  North  America. 

Leaving  Kingston  we  now  enter  upon  the  great 
mVER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

And  here,  let  the  reader  bear  in  mind  that  it  derives  its  source 
from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where  it  is  known  as  the  River  St. 
Louis;  then  expanding  successively  into  the  immense  fresh 
water  seas  of  Superior,  Huron,  Michigan,  St.  Clair,  Erie 
and  Ontario — below  Kino-ston  it  reg-ains  its  characteristic  fea- 
ture  of  a  river  and  continues  in  an  uninterrupted  course  to  the  • 
Atlantic  Ocean. — Floating  along  the  stream,  which  is  here  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  miles  wide,  we  find  ourselves  surrounded  by 
the 

THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 

The  largest  are  from  eight  to  twelve  miles  in  length  and  three 
to  five  miles  in  breadth  ;  the  smallest,  not  an  acre  in  extent. — 
Though  this  extensive  group  bears  the  name  of  the  Thousand 
Isles,  there  are  more  than  1.500  of  them,  forming  a  perpetual 
succession  of  the  most  romantically  beautiful  and  picturesque 
objects  that  can  be  imagined.  The  traveller  is  spell  bound 
whilst  viewing  with  breathless  delight  these  matchless  combina¬ 
tions  of  rock,  wood  and  water  : — 

■‘Hail  Lake  of  Thousand  Isles! 

Which  clustered  lie  within  the  circling  arms, 

Their  flower-strewn  shores,  kissed  by  the  silver  tide. 

As  fair  art  thou  as  aught 

That  ever  in  the  lap  of  nature  lay.” 

Warburton,  in  his  Hochelaga  thus  describes  his  impressions 
whilst  gazing  on  this  fairy  scene  : — 

“  Now  we  are  among  the  mazes  of  the  ‘  Thousand  Islands,’  and  pass 
so  close  to  some  of  them  that  we  can  pull  the  leaves  from  the  bending 
boughs  of  the  trees,  as  the  merciless  wheels  of  the  steamer  dash  to  atoms 
their  beautiful  reflection  in  the  mirror  of  the  calm  blue  water.  The  eye 
does  not  weary  to  see,  but  the  hand  aches,  in  ever  writing  the  one  word — 
beauty,  wherever  you  steer  over  this  great  river — beauty,  beauty  still.” 


19 


As  weemerge  from  this  scene  of  enchantment,  therivercontracts 
to  about  two  miles  in  width.  The  scenery  is  constantly  changing 
— at  one  moment,  white  cultivated  fields  and  rural  settlements 
appear — at  the  next,  features  of  bold  outline  impart  a  grandeur  and 
variety  to  the  river  and  its  shores,  possessed  by  no  other  stream, 
in  an  equal  degree.  Descending,  the  small  village  of  Ganonno- 
qui  meets  our  view,  and  WelVs  Island  belonging  to  the  United 
States  is  also  passed. — In  1838  this  island  was  the  scene  of  a 
daring  act  of  piracy.  The  British  steamer  “  /S'ir  Robert  PeeZ” 
whilst  stopping  to  wood,  was  boarded  at  midnight  by  a  band  of 
armed  men,  who  after  ordering  the  captain,  crew  and  passengers 
ashore,  robbed  the  vessel  of  everything  valuable  and  set  her  on 
fire.  The  celebrated  Bill  Johnson  was  suspected  to  be  the 
leader  of  the  ^ang:.  Leavingr  this  scene  of  outrage  we  arrive 
at  Brockville,  one  of  the  prettiest  towns  in  Canada.  The 
liouses  are  built  with  considerable  taste,  and  the  scenery  they 
command  is  exquisite.  Below,  the  small  village  of  Maitland  is 
seen,  and  we  arrive  at  Prescott,  which  is  a  town  of  some  im¬ 
portance  possessing  a  population  of  some  4,000  inhabitants. — 
Fort  Wellington,  strongly  garrisoned,  commands  the  river. 
Windmill  Point,  one  mile  below  Prescott  is  a  spot  made  me¬ 
morable  during  the  late  rebellion.  In  November,  1838,  a  body 
of  American  sympathizers  under  the  command  of  a  Pole  named 
Van  Schidtz  landed  at  this  spot  to  aid  the  patriots.  They  took 
possession  of  the  Windmill  and  some  stone  houses,  and  defended 
themselves  fighting  desperately  for  some  time  ;  but  the  British 
forces  brinffino'  some  camion  to  bear  upon  them,  rendered  their 
position  untenable,  and  the  survivors  were  compelled  to  surren¬ 
der.  The  leaders  suffered  death  on  the  gallows  as  pirates;  the 
others  were  sentenced  to  transportation  for  life  to  Van  Dieman’s 
Land,  but  have  since  been  pardoned  by  Q,oeen  Victoria. 
The  Windmill  and  rootless  houses  shattered  by  the  artillery, 
o-ive  fearful  evidence  to  the  spectator  of  the  murderous  confiict 
which  there  took  place.  Immediately  opposite  to  Prescott  and 
connected  with  it  by  a  ferry,  is  Ogdensburgh,  (which  with 
Prescott,  the  Windmill,  Sec.  all  come  in  full  view,  on  this 
great  painting,)  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswegatckie 
river ;  and  as  it  appears  to  be  a  bustling  go-ahead  town,  we  will 
request  the  reader  to  land  with  us  and  take  a  bird’s-eye  view  of  the 
whole  city.  Prescott,  opposite  the  majestic  river,  covered  with 


20 


steam'ers  and  shipping  gliding  between  them.  The  rising  sno 
lights  up  the  various  streets,  and  the  snug  dwellings  with  hand¬ 
some  flower-gardens  attached.  Even  at  this  early  hour  the 
mills  and  factories  appear  to  be  in  full  operation  ;  the  venders  of 
millc  are  serving  their  customers  ;  the  population  are  all  astir, 
and  the  whole  place  has  the  appearance  of  thriving  industry  and 
prosperity,  which  stamps  it  as  belonging  to  Uncle  Sam’s  domi¬ 
nions. — Once  more  we  are  upon  the  bosom  of  the  noble  river; 
and  confiding  in  the  skill  of  an  experienced  pilot,  we  fearlessly 
brave  the  “  Gallop  Rapids,”  and  hurried  through  the  plunging^ 
feamino-  billows,  find  ourselves  ao;ain  in  smooth  water.  A  sue- 
cession  of  these  dangerous  rapids  extend  at  intervals,  from  this 
point  to  a  little  above  Montreal ;  all  of  them  are,  however,  navi¬ 
gable  by  steamers  descending,  but  never  ascending ;  they  pass¬ 
ing  in  their  upward  course  through  a  series  of  Canals^  which 
have  lieen  cmistructed  all  along  the  shores  of  the  river  in  order 
to  avoid  these  rapids.  Steara-propsllors,  and  other  craft,  freighted 
vvith  the  produce  of  the  Far  West  are  enabled  to  make  their 
transit  by  the  channels  from  Lake  Superior  to  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  from  thence  across  the  Atlantic  to  Europe.  The  immense 
rafts  of  timber  which  float  down  this  great  river  and  through  the 
surging  rapids  on  their  way  to  Montreal  and  Quebec  are  objects 
of  wonder  and  admiration  to  all  strans'ers.  Whilst  drifting 
down  some  uninterrupted  reach,  the  rafts  attached  to  each  other 
by  brackets  operating  on  the  principle  of  a  swivel,  forming  one 
immense  raft,  many  of  them  a  mile  in  length.  On  arriving  at 
the  commencement  of  the  rapids,  the  rafts  dissolve  partnership, 
and  the  hardy  lumberers  ply  their  long  sweeps  with  desperate 
energy  until  the  danger  is  passed.  Yet  it  often  happens  that  in 
spite  of  their  skill,  the  ponderous  mass  of  timber  is  dashed  with 
resistless  force  against  the  rocks,  hidden  by  the  foam  of  the  boil¬ 
ing  surges,  or  islands  that  intersect  the  furious  eurrent  of  the 
river.  Many  poor  fellows  meet  a  watery  grave,  whilst  the  logs 
of  timber  and  sawn  lumber  on  which  such  labor  has  been  ex¬ 
pended  become  the  booty  of  river  pirates,  always  on  the  alert 
for  such  disasters.  A  great  variety  of  these  rafts  in  different  si¬ 
tuations  are  faithfully  portrayed  on  the  painting  which  this  book 
is-  intended  tn  aeeompany.  As  I  have  occasionally  mentioned 
particular  obJecISy  as  appearing  on  the  painting,  it  may  be  proper 
to  state  that  th©  whole  range  of  scenery,  including  almost  every 


21 


object  and  place  however  minute  on  both  shores  from  Lake  Erie 
to  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  are  depicted  with  the  same  care  and  truth¬ 
fulness  as  those  to  which  I  make  particular  allusion. 

The  iSt.  Lawrence  is  undoubtedly  the  natural  channel  and 
outlet  for  the  produce  of  all  the  States  bordering  on  the  great 
Western  Lakes.  American  enterprize  has  opened  an  artificial 
channel,  by  the  Erie  Canal,  but  natural  advantages  are  in  favor 
of  the  St.  Lawrence.  In  twenty  years,  possibly  in  five,  there 
will  be  a  line  of  packets  plying  between  Chicago  and  Liverpool 
completely  outflanking  New  York. — All  that  is  necessary  to  se¬ 
cure  this,  IS  the  opening  the  navigation  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to 
American  vessels.  The  country  is  now  of  a  quietly  undulating 
character  ;  cheerful  villages  and  green  clearings  diversify  the 
scenery.  Gliding  by  Matilda’s  Landing,  one  of  the  entrances 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  Canal,  we  pass  successively  the  villages  of 
Ea.H  and  West  Williamsburg,  and  then  for  several  miles  are 
carried  through  the  dangerous  rapids  of  the  Long  Sault. 
Cornwall,  a  town  of  some  importance  containing  about  2,000 
inhabitants  and  situated  at  the  lower  end  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
Canal  is  seen,  and  four  miles  below  on  the  American  side  of  the 
river  we  come  to  the  Indian  village  of  St.  Regis,  which  is  on 
the  line  of  45  degrees  North  latitude.  Part  of  this  village  is  in 
Canada,  and  part  in  the  United  States  ;  the  dividing  line  being 
accurately  drawn  on  the  foreground  of  the  Panorama  ;  the  River 
St.  Lawrence,  below  this  point  being  entirely  in  Canada. 
Here,  on  a  small  portion  of  the  hunting  grounds  of  their  once 
powerful  nation,  is  to  be  found  a  settlement  of  the  Iroquois. 
Many  of  the  men  obtain  a  precarious  subsistence  by  hunting  j 
the  women  make  mitts,  baskets  and  mocassins.  The  Indian 
boys  are  expert  swimmers,  and.  during  the  summer  season,  visit¬ 
ers  often  put  their  skill  to  the  test  by  throwing  a  piece  of  money 
into  the  river  from  the  steamboat  landing,  when  a  half  a  dozen 
of  the  little  copper-colored  urchins  will  dive  in  after  it,  generally 
succeeding  in  catching  it  before  it  reaches  the  bottom,  although 
sometimes  compelled  to  dive  to  the  depth  of  ten  to  twenty  feet. 
Passing  the  light-house  we  enter  an  expansion  of  the  river  30 
miles  in  length  and  seven  in  breadth,  called  Lake  St.  Francis. 
On  the  shore  may  be  observed  a  large  cairn,  or  pile  of  stones, 
raised  by  the  loyal  Glengarry  Highlanders  in  honor  of  Sir  John 
Colborne,  formerly  Governor  General  of  Canada.  I/Ancaster, 


22 


another  convenient  steamboat  landing,  is  now  before  ns.  It  is 
connected  by  a  road  with  the  celebrated  Caledonia  Springs, 
thirty  miles  distant.  The  dividing  line  of  the  two  Provinces 
crossed,  we  now  arrive  at  the  village  of  Coteau  du  Lac^  in 
Lower  Canada,  or  Canada  East  as  it  is  generally  designated 
by  the  Canadians.  A  few  miles  further  the  village  of  the  Cedars 
is  past,  and  here  we  behold  the  mighty  St.  Lawrence  pent  into 
several  narrow  channels,  among  wooded  islands,  and  rushing 
fiercely  along  over  its  rocky  bed. — Nothing  can  exceed  the  ex¬ 
citing  spectacle  of  the  Cedar  Rajnds  with  its  frantic  billows 
capped  with  snowy  plumes.  The  islands  which  obstruct  the 
current  of  the  river,  are  perfect  gems  of  beauty.  Nature  in  one 
of  her  loveliest  freaks,  has  sprinkled  them  with  flowers,  wreathed 
them  with  vines,  and  the  flowering  shrubs  and  trees  drop  their 
leaves,  and  dip  their  branches  and  buds  in  the  angry  tide,  as  if 
to  deprecate  its  wrath.  Passengers  on  the  deck  of  the  passing 
steamer  may  often  be  seen  plucking  them  from  the  branehes. — 
Steamboats  pass  down  these  rapids,  though  not  without  risk  as 
may  be  imagined,  when  the  rapid  current  sweeps  them  close  to 
rocks  and  islands,  which  if  touched,  would  insure  destruction. 
Latterly,  however,  the  route  has  baen  rendered  more  safe  by  the 
discovery  of  a  channel,  which  it  is  said  was  used  long  ago  by 
the  French  voyageurs. — In  the  Cedar  and  Cascade  Rapids, 
there  is  a  difierence  of  sixty  feet  in  the  elevation  in  about  sixteen 
miles,  and  the  immense  body  of  water  rushes  down  at  the  rate 
of,  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  per  hour.  To  ascend  against 
this  current  would  be  impossible,  therefore  vessels  of  every  de¬ 
scription  pass  through  the  Beaiiharnois  Conal,  which  com¬ 
mences  at  the  village  of  that  name,  sixteen  miles  below.  In  the 
year  1759,  when  General  Amherst  entered  Canada,  his  ad¬ 
vanced  guard,  of  about  300  men  embarked  above  the  Cedars ; 
the  intention  was  to  float  down  and  take  up  a  position  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river.  Perhaps  these  dangerous  channels 
were  but  little  known,  or  that  the  pilot  played  them  false — none 
survived  as  accusers;  the  next  day  the  lifeless  bodies  of  the 
British  soldiers,  clothed  in  the  well  known  red,  floating  past 
Montreal  gave  the  first  notice  of  invasion.  Leaving  behind  us 
the  Cascade  Rapids,  and  passing  the  light-house,  we  find  our¬ 
selves  upon  the  bosom  of  the  calm  and  glassy  Lake  Rt.  Louis, 
another  expansion  of  the  River  St.  Lawrence  two  and  a  half 


23 


miles  wide  at  this  point.  Here  the  St.  Lawrence  receives  an 
important  accession,  by  the  influx  of  one  branch  of  the  great 
River  Uttawas  or  Ottawa,  from  the  North  West.  Its  im¬ 
mense  volume  of  water,  (which  is  probably  fully  equal  to  the 
Ohio  River,)  is  discharged  into  the  St.  Lawrence  through  three 
separate  and  distinct  channels,  the  last  of  which  is  about 
twenty  miles  below  ISIontreal,  its  yellow  clay-colored  water, 
forming  a  striking  contrast  where  it  mingles  with  the  pure  blue 
waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  is  said  to  have  its  source  near 
the  Rocky  Mountain.'^,  and  to  travel  a  distance  of  two  thousand 
jive  hundred  miles  ;  but  it  has  never  been  fully  explored.  The 
scenery  along  the  entire  length,  owing  to  the  numerous  falls  and 
cascades,  is  extremely  romantic.  A  few  miles  above  this  em¬ 
bouchure  of  the  Ottawa  is  situated  the  village  of  St.  Ann.  It 
owes  its  existence  and  support  to  the  contributions  of  the  Cana¬ 
dian  voyageurs,  who  never  omit  to  pay  their  offerings  at  the 
shrine  of  St.  Amie,  their  tutelar  Saint,  before  engaging  in  any 
enterprize. — This  gave  rise  to  the  Canadian  Boat  Song  of  the 
Poet,  Moore ; — 

“Faintly  as  tolls  the  evening  chime, 

Our  voices  keep  tune,  and  our  oars  keep  time  ; 

Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  look  dim, 

Wedl  sing  at  St.  Ann’s  our  parting  hymn  ; 

Row,  brothers,  row,  the  stream  runs  fast. 

The  Rapids  are  near  and  the  daylight’s  passed,”  &c.  &c. 

Many  who  never  have  seen  and  never  will  see  the  “  Uttawas’ 
tide”  have  sung  in  cadence  to  its  murmuring  tide,  till  it  has 
become  almost  a  household  word.  Neither  the  Hudson,  Missis¬ 
sippi  or  Ohio,  can  boast  of  such  charming  scenery  as  is  seen  on 
the  Ottawa. — Continuing  down  the  lake  we  arrive  at  the  Iro¬ 
quois  settlement  of  Caughnawaga  or  the  “  Village  of  the 
Rapids  j  situated  on  the  Southern  shore  ten  miles  from  Mont¬ 
real.  Their  number  is  about  1,200,  they  have  a  very  respecta¬ 
ble  church  and  comfortable  houses,  they  subsist  principally  in 
the  summer  by  navigating  boats  and  rafts  down  the  Lachine 
Rapids  ;  and  in  winter  by  the  manufacture  and  sale  of  snow- 
shoes,  mocassins,  &c.  During  the  troubles  of  1838,  these  In¬ 
dians  rendered  an  essential  service  to  the  government.  On  Sun¬ 
day,  4th  day  of  November,  a  body  of  armed  insurgents  had  con- 


24 


cealed  themselves  in  the  woods  near  the  village  with  the  proba¬ 
ble  intention  of  committing  some  depredation  during  the  night. 
Tliese  were  discovered  by  some  Indian  children  who  were 
searching  for  berries  and  who  carried  the  news  to  the  church, 
where  the  warriors  were  attending  divine  service.  The  congre¬ 
gation  turned  out  en  masse  and  raising  the  warwhoop,  rushed 
upon  the  insurgents,  disarmed  them  and  took  them  prisoners. 
They  then  carried  them  down  to  Montreal  and  delivered  them 
up  to  the  authorities.  Their  loyal  conduct  has  been  rewarded 
by  special  marks  of  favor  from  Her  Majesty’s  Government.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  the  little  village  of  Lachine — 
how  it  came  to  be  thus  named  is  worth  relating. — At  the  time 
Canada  was  discovered,  the  great  object  of  adventure  was  to  find 
a  North  West  passage  to  India  and  China.  Champlain,  who  in 
his  second  voyage  to  this  country,  made  a  settlement  at  Mont¬ 
real,  was  so  convinced  that  a  passage  to  the  Pacific  Ocean  could 
be  made  by  the  way  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  great  Lakes, 
that  he  named  the  river  above  the  rapids  Lachine,  (China,) 
meaning  that  it  was  the  road  to  China,  which  name  it  bears  to 
this  day. 

After  leaving  Lachine  the  St.  Lawrence  contracts  and  boils 
up  and  foams  in  a  most  terrific  manner  amongst  rocks  and  small 
islands,  for  nine  miles,  forming  the  Rapids  of  Lachine  or 
Sault  St.  Louis.  The  current  is  forced  through  a  variety  of 
narrow  channels  in  many  places  at  the  rate  of  thirty  miles  per 
hour,  and  the  roaring  of  the  maddened  waters  may  be  heard  for 
several  miles.  These  are  the  most  dangerous  rapids  along  the 
course  of  the  St.  Lawrence ;  vessels  descend  them  although 
they  often  suffer  for  their  temerity;  but  it  is  impracticable  to 
ascend  except  by  passing  through  the  fine  ship  canal  which 
extends  from  Montreal  to  the  village  of  Lachine.  The  noble 
river  now  assumes  its  usual  dignified  appearance,  placidly  ex¬ 
panding  to  more  than  two  miles  in  width  and  leaving  the  de¬ 
lightful  village  of  Laprairie  on  the  right  hand  (where  com¬ 
mences  the  St.  /o/ur  railroad)  it  presents  us  with  a  most  imposing 
and  magnificent  view  of 

MONTREAL,  the  CAPITAL  CITY  of  UNITED  CANADA. 

In  mid-channel,  and  one  mile  from  the  city,  St.  Helen's 
Island  clothed  with  verdure  and  interspersed  with  fine  trees 


25 


amidst  which  field-works  and  fortifications  peep  out — forms  the 
foreground.  Facing  us  to  the  Westward  we  behold  a  spectacle 
unequalled  in  North  America — a  City  of  Granite,  with  such 
an  appearance  of  solidity  that  it  would  seem  as  if  intended  to 
last  for  ages.  A  massive  stone  quay  extends  along  the  whole 
river  front,  forming  a  delightful  promenade  in  summer.  The 
margin  is  lined  with  noble  stone-warehouses  resembling  a  row 
of  fortifications  ;  fronting  the  St.  Lawrence  is  the  Bonsecoiirs 
Market  an  imposing  structure  exceeding  many  royal  palaces  in 
architectural  embellishments.  The  French  Cathedral  of  Notre 
Dame  is  a  magnificent  pile  of  building — without  exception  (he 
largest  relimons  edifice  in  America.  The  length  from  East  to 
West  is  255  feet  6  inches — the  breadth  134  feet,  and  the  two 
towers  on  the  principal  or  West  front  are  each  220  feet  high.  It 
posseses  the  largest  bell  in  the  Western  Hemisphere  weighing- 
fifteen  tons. — It  contains  1,244  pews — and  in  this  immense  tem¬ 
ple  10,000  people  can  kneel  in  prayer.  Amongst  many  other 
fine  Churches  of  which  this  city  can  boast,  St.  Patrick's  Catho¬ 
lic  Church  is  capable  of  containing  7,000  persons.  The  public 
buildings  are  numerous  and  imposing.  They  include  the  Par¬ 
liament  House,  Government  House,  The  Hotel  Dieu,  two  large 
Nunneries,  the  Seminary  of  St.  Siilpice,  some  fine  banks,  an 
elegant  and  convenient  Theatre  and  Barracks  for  2,000  men  ; 
while  in  the  rear  of  the  city,  Mont  Royal,  studded  with  hand¬ 
some  villas  looms  up  majestically  to  the  height  of  six  hundred 
feet,  and  forms  the  back-ground  of  the  picture.  During  the 
Canadian  riots,  on  the  night  of  the  25th  of  April,  1849,  the 
House  of  Assembly,  with  all  the  archives  and  records  of  the 
colonies,  for  upwards  of  a  century,  were  destroyed  by  fire.  The 
books  were  valued  at  .£100,000;  not  eighty  dollars  worth  of 
property  was  saved.  The  loss  is  irreparable.  The  Queen’s 
picture,  which  was  saved  from  the  burning  buildings,  was  de¬ 
stroyed  in  the  streets.  Montreal  is  well  lighted  with  gas, 
has  an  efficient  police,  and  is  considered  the  cleanest  city 
“  in  Her  Majesty’s  Dominions,”  and  is  without  exception 
the  cleanest  city  in  America.  Here  ladies  are  as  often  seen 
walking  in  the  middle  of  the  street  as  on  the  side-walk  and 
that  too  without  soiling  a  kid  slipper.  Every  thing  about  die 
city  speaks  of  its  French  origin,  and  so  tenacious  have  been  the 
French  of  their  nationalities  that  a  century  of  English  rule  has 
altered  slightly  their  habits  or  manners.  All  the  public  docu- 

4 


2G 


ments  are  still  printed  in  French  as  well  as  English.  The  new 
streets  are  spacious  containing  many  elegant  stores.  The 
Hotels  are  numerous  ;  Donnegana’s,  a  splendid  house  equalling 
in  size  the  famous  Astor  House  of  New  York  has  lately  been 
destroyed  by  fire  ;  it  was  unsurpassed  in  the  elegance  of  its 
accommodations.  In  the  year  1809  the  inhabitants  erected  by 
subscription,  a  monument  to  Lord  Nelson  the  Hero  of  Trafal 
gar.  It  consists  of  a  stone  column  surmounted  by  a  fine  statue 
of  the  naval  hero  ;  it  fronts  the  principal  street  of  which  it  is  an 
ornament. 

On  the  second  visit  of  Jacques  Cartier  to  this  country,  during 
the  reign  of  Francis  I.  of  France,  he  heard  that  there  was  a 
large  settlement  far  up  the  great  river  called  Hochelaga,  and  he 
determined  to  sail  in  quest  of  it.  After  a  perilous  voyage  he 
discovered  a  fortified  town,  belonging  to  the  Huron  tribe,  dwell¬ 
ing  among  rich  corn-fields  on  a  beautiful  island,  and  under  the 
shade  of  a  mountain  named  Mont  Koyal,  and  which  time  has 
changed  to  Montreal.  Sixty-eight  years  afterwards,  the  Sieur 
Dements,  speaking  of  Canada,  reported  that  “  the  Tillage  of 
Hochelaga  was  now  no  more.” 

But  in  the  year  1640,  several  persons  full  of  religious  zeal, 
formed  themselves  into  a  society  for  the  purpose  of  colonizing 
the  Island  of  Mont  Royal.  The  king  of  France  ceded  to  this 
association  the  whole  island,  and  Monsieur  Maisonneuve  was 
appointed  Governor,  17th  June,  1642.  The  spot  selected  for 
the  city  was  consecrated  by  the  Superior  of  the  Jesuits,  the 
“  Gueen  of  Angels”  was  supplicated  to  take  it  under  her  protec 
tion  and  it  was  named  after  her,  “La  Ville  Marie.”  In  1644 
the  whole  of  this  beautiful  domain,  which  on  account  of  its  fer¬ 
tility  is  called  the  Garden  of  Canada,  became  the  property  of  the 
fSt.  Sulpicians  of  Paris,  and  was  by  them  afterwards  conveyed 
to  the  Seminary  of  the  same  Order  at  Montreal,  in  whose  posses¬ 
sion  it  now  remains.  At  the  conquest  of  Canada  by  Great  Brit¬ 
ain  in  1760,  the  property  and  revenues  of  the  Seignories,  and 
all  estates  belonging  to  existing  religious  institutions  were  guar¬ 
anteed  to  the  possessors. 

The  terms  in  favor  of  the  French  residents  were  faithfully 
and  even  liberally  fulfilled  by  the  British  government.  Civil 
and  religious  liberty  was  granted  to  the  Canadians  and  great  for¬ 
bearance  and  generosity  were  displayed  by  the  captors  to  the 
conquered.  The  Canadians  were  so  gratified  with  the  change 


27 


which  they  experienced  in  coming  under  the  British  rule,  that 
when  George  IL  died  in  1760,  all  the  French  in  Canada  of  every 
distinction  went  into  mourning.  Within  the  last  half  century 
many  capitalists  from  England  and  Scotland  have  settled  at 
Montreal  and  have  infused  a  vigor  and  energy  into  it  which  is 
perceptible  in  its  extended  commerce  and  in  the  improvements 
which  are  daily  taking  place.  The  completion  of  the  line  of 
canals  opening  to  Montreal  and  the  trade  of  the  Western  country, 
has  also  added  to  its  wealth  and  importance. 

Leaving  Montreal  on  our  passage  to  Quebec,  we  have  a  fine 
view  on  the  right  hand  of  iSt.  Helenas  Island  ;  its  pleasant  green 
slopes  and  shady  glens,  affording  delightful  situations  for  pic-nic 
and  rural  parties,  of  which  the  citizens  of  Montreal  frequently 
avail  themselves  in  the  summer.  On  our  left,  we  are  passing  a 
quarter  of  the  city,  called  the  Quebec  Suburbs.  It  contains 
several  buildings  of  note  ;  the  Military  Hospital,  the  JSew  .Tail, 
and  Molso7i's  Brewery,  an  immense  range  of  stone  buildings, 
almost  equal  in  extent  to  some  of  the  Porter  Breweries  of  Lon¬ 
don.  A  little  below  this  a  ferry  connects  with  the  Village  of 
Longueil  on  the  opposite  shore,  from  whence  there  is  a  fine 
plank-road  extending  about  twenty-three  miles  to  Charnbly. 
On  this  road  two  miles  from  the  village,  the  first  blood  was  shed 
during  the  rebellion  of  1837.  A  peace  officer,  having  two  pris¬ 
oners  in  custody  and  accompanied  by  a  party  of  the  Royal  Mon¬ 
treal  Cavalry,  just  previously  organized,  were  returning  to  Mon¬ 
treal,  when  they  were  intercepted  by  a  large  body  of  armed  peas¬ 
antry,  who  fired  upon  them  from  a  large  barn  and  from  behind 
the  fences  which  bordered  the  road.  Several  of  the  cavalry 
were  wounded  and  their  prisoners  rescued.  We  now  descend 
the  Rapids  of  St.  Mary  and  on  the  North  shore,  pass  in  suc¬ 
cession  the  villages  of  Longueil  Point  and  Point  aux  Trembles 
and  on  the  South  shore  the  Village  of  Boucherville.  Another 
branch  of  the  Ottawa  now  joins  the  St.  Lawrence,  still  increas¬ 
ing  the  already  enormous  volume  of  water.  Village  after  vil¬ 
lage,  is  now  passed,  each,  with  its  picturesque  church ;  indeed 
the  whole  bank  of  the  river  hence  to  Quebec  and  200  miles  be¬ 
low  that  city,  appears  to  be  one  continuous  village,  being  thickly 
dotted  with  the  white  cottages,  churches  and  long  white  barns 
of  the  simple  kabitans.  The  French  Canadian  remains  to  this 
day,  in  all  his  customs  as  were  his  forefathers  a  century  back  j 
he  can  recognize  no  improvement  either  in  the  tilling  of  his  land 


28 


or  his  household  habits.  On  his  saint’s  day  or  the  Sabbath,  he 
repairs  to  his  village  church  clothed  in  the  same  style  as  his  an¬ 
cestors.  During  the  summer  he  cultivates  his  land  and  when 
the  snows  of  winter  cover  the  earth,  he  harnesses  his  little  pon¬ 
ies  and  accompanied  by  his  happy  family,  he  visits  his  neighbors 
and  seated  round  their  large  square  stoves,  made  in  the  style  of 
a  past  century,  he  passes  his  long  winter  evenings  in  happiness 
and  amuses  himself  with  tales  of  “  La  Belle  France^  Kind, 
hospitable,  contented,  he  asks  for  no  change  in  his  condition,  hut 
only  desires  to  be  allowed  to  do  as  his  fathers  did  before  him. 
He  dies — and  his  children  divide  his  land,  each  taking  a 
lef  and  live  over  the  same  old  scenes  again.  There  dwells  not 
on  the  face  of  the  earth  a  more  happy,  contented  and  honest 
people.  Varennes,  on  the  South  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  a 
delightful  place,  famous  for  the  mineral  springs  in  its  vicinity. 
Ill  the  distance  the  holy  mountain,  its  summit  crowned  with 
the  Pilgrim’s  Cross,  which  may  be  seen  for  many  miles,  imparts 
a  grandeur  to  the  scene.  The  Cross  was  erected  by  the  Bishop 
of  Nancy  ;  it  is  made  of  timber  100  feet  high  and  covered  with 
tin  which  in  the  dry  atmosphere  of  this  country  always  retains 
its  brightness,  and  many  a  pious  hahitan  devoutly  crosses  him¬ 
self,  when  he  beholds  this  emblem  of  his  faith  shining  like  burn¬ 
ished  gold  in  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun.  Fifteen  miles  further 
on  tlie  same  side,  the  St.  Lawrence  receives  the  Richelieu  river 
which  issues  from  Lake  Champlain  and  flows  for  about  .seventy 
miles  through  a  fertile  country.  Flourishing  settlements,  neat 
and  populous  villages  and  handsome  churches  adorn  its  banks 
nearly  the  whole  length.  Near  its  junction  with  the  St.  Law¬ 
rence  is  the  pretty  village  of  William  Henry  or  Rorel,  called  so 
on  account  of  its  being  built  on  the  site  of  old  Fort  William 
Henry.  This  is  a  military  station,  the  commander-in-chief  gen¬ 
erally  residing  here.  It  is  rapidly  increasing  in  trade  and  im¬ 
portance  and  numbers  about  3,000  inhabitants,  principally  Brit¬ 
ish.  The  American  army  occupied  the  old  fort  in  1776  on  their 
retreat  from  Quebec,  after  the  death  of  Montgomery.  Contin¬ 
uing  through  a  cluster  of  wooded  islands  we  enter  Lake  St. 
Peter j  which  is  merely  another  expansion  of  the  mighty  river  to 
about  15  miles  in  width  and  25  in  length.  The  water  is  shal¬ 
low  and  of  great  variety  of  tints.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  fine 
agricultural  country,  while  the  scenery  along  the  banks  is  rather 
flat  and  monotonous.  Two  substantial  light-ships  mark  the 


29 


ship-channel  which  is  very  intricate.  The  English  government 
have  expended  nearly  a  million  of  dollars  for  deepening  and 
improving  the  channel,  rendering  navigation  for  ships  of  a  large 
class,  safe  and  easy  to  Montreal,  a  distance  of  530  miles  from 
the  Atlantic  Ocean.  At  the  termination  of  the  lake  the  river  again 
rapidly  contracts  to  its  usual  width,  resumes  its  dignified  deport¬ 
ment  and  with  constantly  increasing  volume  continues  on  its 
pilgrimage  to  the  ocean.  Here  exactly  half  way  between  Mont¬ 
real  and  Quebec,  we  approach  the  old  town  of  Three  Rivers 
— old  for  the  Western  world — for  it  was  settled  by  the  French 
in  1618.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Western  bank  of  the 
river  at  its  confluence  with  the  river  St.  Maurice  which  enters 
the  St.  Lawrence  by  three  separate  channels.  Two  islands, 
connected  by  substantial  bridges,  at  the  embonchere  of  the  St. 
Maui'ice  give  it  the  appearance  of  three  distinct  rivers,  and  to 
this  the  town  owes  its  name.  It  is  famous  for  its  iron  forges, 
established  as  long  ago  as  1737.  Many  wealthy  French  famil¬ 
ies  reside  here.  The  Rive?'  St.  Maurice  is  nearly  150  miles  in 
length  and  contributes  a  supply  of  water  to  the  St.  Lawrence 
nearly  eijual  in  volume  to  that  of  the  Hudson  to  the  Atlantic. 
Opposite  this,  enters  the  river  Becancour.  After  passing  the 
mouths  of  the  St.  Maurice,  the  shores  gradually  rise,  assuming 
a  loftier  and  more  romantic  character.  Churches  generally  with 
two  spires^ — -villages  and  white  cottages  are  profusely  scattered 
along  the  shore.  The  population  is  now  very  dense  on  both 
sides  of  the  river.  We  now  see  in  succession  the  Batiscan  and 
St.  Anne's  rivers— the  former  a  stream  of  magnitude  entering 
by  two  channels.  Scenery  of  the  most  picturesque  and  varied 
description  continually  greets  the  eye — the  view  bounded  by 
remote  and  lofty  mountains,  from  amongst  which  the  rapid  river 
Jacques  Cartier  rushes  impetuously  into  tlie  St.  Lawrence. 
The  Richelieu  Rapids  are  next  passed — they  extend  some  ten 
miles  and  are  very  shallow  and  in  many  places  the  rocks  are 
visible  threatening  shipwreck  to  the  unwary  mariner. 

The  government  have,  however,  erected  beacons  in  the  most 
dangerous  places.  On  the  North  shore  we  now  pass  Cape  Saute 
and  directly  opposite  a  smalt  settlement  called  St.  Trois.  ddre 
banks  of  the  river  have  now  almost  a  perpendicular  elevation  of 
from  100  to  300  feet  and  from  thence  extending  back  in  a  beauti¬ 
ful  level  plain  covered  with  the  richest  verdure.  Cape  Rouge 
appears  on  the  left,  and  here  for  the  first  time  we  catch  a  view 


30 


of  the  Citadel  of  Quebec  connected  with  so  much  historical 
reminiscence.  On  the  South  side  the  Chaudiere  River  rushes 
over  a  beautiful  rapid,  four  nailes  from  its  mouth,  dashing  and 
foaming  amidst  the  wildest  wood-crowned  cliffs,  and  charming 
sequestered  valleys.  Two  miles  above  Quebec,  we  reach 
Wolf’s  Cove  and  behold  with  breathless  interest  the  spot  where 
after  so  many  risks  and  difficulties,  he  landed  his  gallant  army 
and  won  a  glorious  grave  in  the  arms  of  victory.  The  track  by 
which  he  ascended  the  heights  to  the  Plains  of  Abraham  meets 
our  anxious  gaze,  and  not  far  from  the  martello  tower  that 
stands  before  us,  is  a  monument  erected  by  a  grateful  nation,  on 
the  very  spot  where  fell  the  lamented  hero  in  his  hour  of  tri¬ 
umph.  From  Quebec  to  the  opposite  shore  is  about  three  quar¬ 
ters  of  a  mile,  but  the  basin  just  below  is  five  times  as  wide  and 
large  and  deep  enough  to  float  England’s  navy. 

We  now  glide  by  many  deep  coves  filled  with  timber,  and 
destined  soon  to  be  conveyed  to  Europe,  by  the  vessels  which 
lie  at  anchor  below.  At  the  foot  of  the  rock  is  the  suburbs  of 
St.  Roch,  and  is  the  commencement  of  the  lower  town.  It  is 
built  on  land  which  has  been  saved  from  the  water  by  the  erec¬ 
tion  of  docks.  A  little  further  down  the  world-renowned  City 
AND  Fortress  op  Quebec  stands  in  all  its  grandeur  before 
you,  with  the  standard  of  England  floating  from  its  citadel. 

Standing  on  the  heights  of  Cape  Diamoyid  and  gazing  across 
the  deep  channel  of  the  lordly  St.  Lawrence,  which  is  now  about 
1,400  yaids  wide,  (but  appears  to  be  not  half  that  distance  in  the 
clear  bright  atmosphere)  the  whole  gorgeous  scene  lies  spread 
before  us. 

We  cannot  resist  giving  the  following  lucid  description  of  the 
CITY  OF  QUEBEC, 

As  furnished  by  Mr.  Buckingham  in  his  interesting  work  on 
Canada. — “  The  situation  of  Quebec,  is  highly  advantageous,  in  a 
commercial  as  well  as  a  military  point  of  view,  and  its  appearance 
is  very  imposing  from  whatever  quarter  it  is  first  approached., 
though  at  a  distance  of  350  miles  up  from  the  Sea,  the  magnifi¬ 
cent  river  on  which  it  is  seated,  is  3  miles  in  breadth  a  little  below 
the  town,  and  narrows  into  about  a  mile  in  breadth  immediately 
abreast  of  the  Citadel  ;  having  in  both  these  parts,  sufficient  depth 
of  water  for  the  largest  ships  In  the  world — a  rise  and  fall  of  20 


31 


feet  in  its  tides — and  space  enough  in  its  capacious  basin,  between 
Oape  Diamond  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  Isle  of  Orleans  on  the 
other,  to  afford  room  and  anchorage  for  a  thousand  sail  of  vessels 
at  a  time,  sheltered  from  all  winds,  and  perfectly  secure  !  The 
River  St.  Charles,  has  its  junction  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  a  little 
to  the  North  of  the  promontory  of  Cape  Diamond,  and  affords  a 
favorable  spot  for  ship  building  and  repairs,  as  well  as  an  excellent 
winter  harbour  for  ships  lying  up  dismantled. 

QUEBEC, 

Lies  at  the  junction  of  the  St.  Charles,  with  the  St.  Lawrence, 
the  ground  plan  of  which  is  almost  precisely  the  same  as  New- 
York',  lying  as  it  does  at  the  junction  of  the  East  and  Hudson 
Rivers. 

THE  CITADEL  OF  QUEBEC 

Occupies  the  highest  point  of  Cape  Diamond,  being  elevated 
350  feet  above  the  river,  and  presenting  almost  perpendicular 
cliffs  towards  the  water. 

The  city  is  built  from  the  waters’  edge,  along  the  foot  of  these 
cliffs,  round  the  point  of  the  promontory,  and  ascending  upwards 
from  thence  to  the  very  borders  of  the  citadel  itself.  It  is  divided 
into  the  Lower  and  Upper  town,  the  former  including  all  that  is 
below  the  ramparts,  or  fortified  lines,  the  latter  comprehending  all 
that  is  above  or  within  that  barrier. 

Besides  these  there  is  a  large  suburb,  separated  from  Quebec 
proper,  called  the  Suburb  of  St.  Roch,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river  St.  Charles,  the  only  portion  of  the  whole  that  is  built  on 
level  ground.  This  portion  of  Quebec  is  building  up  rapidly 
and  presents  a  flourishing  appearance.  Several  of  the  public 
buildings  are  so  prominently  placed,  and  advantageously  seen, 
that  they  relieve  in  some  degree,  the  general  monotony  of  the 
mass  of  ordinary  houses,  and  are  ornamental  to  the  town  ;  while 
the  spires  of  the  churches,  the  dome  of  the  Parliament  House,  and 
other  elevated  points  rising  from  the  general  surface,  with  their 
tinned  roofs  glittering  in  the  sun,  give  a  liveliness  and  variety  to 
the  picture  presented  by  the  city  from  every  point  of  view,  which 
no  other  place  in  America,  and  indeed  few  places  on  the  globe 
presents. 


32 


Quebec  possesses  one  of  the  most  beautiful  promenades  imagi¬ 
nable  ;  it  occupies  the  site  of  the  Castle  of  St.  Louis  of  which 
Champlahi  laid  the  foundation  on  Cth  May,  1624.  The  French 
and  English  Governors  resided  in  this  castle  till  1834,  when  on 
the  23d  January  it  was  entirely  destroyed  by  fire.  It  has  never 
been  rebuilt ;  but  Lord  Durham  had  the  site  cleared  of  the  ruins, 
and  the  whole  are  floored  with  wood  and  converted  into  a  beauti¬ 
ful  platform,  commanding  one  of  the  most  magnificent  panoramic 
views  that  can  be  imagined.  Mr.  Buckingham  remarks  that  while 
he  was  there,  there  were  not  less  than  300  sail  of  merchant  ships 
anchored  in  the  stream,  163  of  which  arrived  in  two  successive 
days,  and  at  least  100  more  lay  along  the  side  of  the  wharves  and 
quays.  “  As  the  weather  was  beautifully  fine,  and  the  country 
still  verdant  all  around,  the  sight  of  so  many  ships  seen  from  a 
height  of  200  feet  above  the  river,  with  the  fine  extent  of  country 
opposite,  thickly  dotted  with  villages  and  hamlets  of  the  purest 
white,  and  the  grandeur  of  the  mountains  in  the  distance  fading 
away  into  a  fainter  and  fainter  blue,  till  scarcely  distinguishable 
from  the  azure  sky  of  the  far  horizon,  was  beautiful  and  magnifi¬ 
cent  beyond  expression.”  The  line  of  fortifications  enclosing  the 
upper  town  and  citadel  is  about  3  miles  in  extent.  All  communi¬ 
cation  with  the  upper  town  is  through  massive  gates  protected  by 
heavy  cannon.  The  Western  part  of  the  city  being  deficient  in 
natural  strength  so  fully  developed  in  the  rest  of  the  line,  has 
been  covered  by  a  combination  of  regular  works,  consisting  of 
ramparts,  bastion,  ditch  and  glacis.  In  order  to  strengthen  the  de¬ 
fences  of  the  city  on  the  West,  four  Martello  towers  were  erected 
on  the  plains  of  Abraham.  They  extend  from  the  St.  Lawrence 
to  the  Coteau  St.  Genevieve  at  irregular  distances  from  each  other 
of  from  5  to  600  yards  and  about  3|  of  a  mile  from  the  city. 

Their  construction  is  such  that  they  could  be  readily  demo¬ 
lished  by  the  guns  from  the  walls,  should  such  a  step  be  rendered 
necessary  by  their  falling  into  the  hands  of  an  enemy,  but  on  the 
opposite  side  their  construction  is  exceedingly  solid  and  the  plat¬ 
form  on  the  top  is  furnished  with  guns  of  a  heavy  calibre.  The 
walk  around  the  ramparts  is  the  most  delightful  that  can  be  imagi¬ 
ned  ;  look  out  in  what  direction  you  please,  the  eye  commands  a 
prospect  of  fifty  miles  in  extent,  replete  with  all  the  elements  which 
enter  into  the  formation  of  a  perfect  landscape.  The  author  of 


33 


Hochelaga  thus  glowingly  describes  the  panoramic  view  from  the 
citadel — “Take mountain  and  plain,  sinuous,  river,  and  broad  tran¬ 
quil  waters,  stately  ship  and  tiny  boat,  gentle  hill  and  shady 
valley,  bold  headland  and  rich  fruitful  fields,  frowning  battlements 
and  cheerful  villa,  glittering  dome  and  rural  spire,  flowery  garden 
and  sombre  forest — group  them  all  into  the  choicest  picture  of 
ideal  beauty  your  fancy  can  create  ;  arch  it  over  with  a  cloudless 
sky,  light  it  up  with  a  radiant  sun,  and  lest  the  scene  should  be  too 
dazzling,  hang  a  veil  of  light^haze  over  all,  to  soften  the  light  and 
perfect  the  repose — you  will  then  have  seen  Quebec  on  this  Sep¬ 
tember  morning.” 

How  changed  the  scene !  Winter  has  cast  its  frigid  mantle 
over  the  gorgeous  landscape.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  now  burdened 
with  immense  masses  of  floating  ice,  exhibiting  the  most  varied  and 
fantastic  appearance  through  which  the  dark  leaden  colored  waters 
are  occasionally  seen.  The  hardy  habitans  keep  up  a  communica¬ 
tion  with  the  opposite  shore  and  carry  passengers  and  light  goods 
in  their  canoes  ;  landing  on  the  intervening  islands  of  ice,  drag¬ 
ging  their  canoes  across  and  launching  them  on  the  other  side. 
Owing  to  the  immense  volume  of  water  and  the  strength  of  the 
current,  the  St.  Lawrence  is  seldom  bound  in  icy  fetters.  Howe¬ 
ver  it  so  happens  that  about  every  five  years  on  an  average,  the  ice 
islands  get  jammed  up  together  sometimes  thrown  up  into  heaps 
or  mounds  of  great  height  opposite  the  city,  and  the  frost  binding 
them,  forms  a  'pont  or  bridge,  on  some  very  severe  night  just  at  the 
turn  of  the  tide.  Winter  suddenly  casts  its  manacles  over  the 
mighty  stream  and  an  immense  sheet  of  glare  ice  extending  for 
many  miles  connects  Quebec  with  the  opposite  shore.  When  this 
takes  place,  it  is  hailed  with  almost  frantic  delight  by  the  whole 
population.  The  glassy  surface  of  the  river  is  soon  covered  with 
gay  parties  in  sledges  and  carioles,  whisked  along  at  fearful  speed 
by  the  mettlesome  little  horses.  People  clad  in  fur  or  blanket 
coats  are  seen  in  all  directions  sleighing,  skating  and  running. 
But  the  feature  in  the  picture  most  novel  and  interesting  to  the 
stranger  is  the  ice  boats.  A  boat  is  fixed  upon  a  triangular  frame, 
with  runners  like  those  of  skates,  at  each  corner ;  it  is  propelled 
by  sails  sometimes  at  the  rate  of  20  knots  an  hour ;  a  pole  with  a 
spike  at  the  end  acting  as  a  rudder.  Many  of  these  crafts,  filled 
with  a  jovial  crew  of  both  sexes,  are  sailing  on  the  wind,  or  tacking 


5 


Si 


with  the  greatest  facility,  and  when  viewed  from  the  high  banks,  im- 
impart  an  additional  vivacity  to  the  scene.  The  costume  of  the 
peasantry  of  lower  Canada  is  singular  and  picturesque,  it  consists 
generally  of  a  grey  capote  or  long  coat  with  a  hood,  a  variagated 
sash  around  the  waist,  a  red  woollen  cap  on  the  head,  and  long 
boots,  reaching  to  the  thighs,  or  moccassins.  This  with  very  tti- 
fling  variation  is  worn  throughout  the  year.  It  has  been  remarked 
that  Quebec  has  an  Italian  summer  and  a  Russian  winter.  From 
its  position  it  is  preculiarly  liable  to  extremes  of  cold  and  heat.  In 
summer  time  the  thermometer  is  often  at  100  degrees  in  the  shade, 
while  in  the  winter  the  mercury  has  been  known  to  descend  to  40 
degrees  below  Zero.  Yet  the  air  is  pure,  dry,  and  exhilirating, 
and  the  climate  is  exceedingly  healthy  and  only  to  be  dreaded  by 
consumptives. 

Adieu  to  Quebec  !  adieu !  to  the  Citadel  of  North  America 
and  the  Gibraltar  of  the  Western  Continent — to  the  battle  ground 
of  Wolfe  rich  in  undying  memories!  We  are  once  more  borne 
along  on  the  deep  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  sigh  as  the 
fairy  like  scene  fades  on  our  view.  We  are  passing  through 
fleets  of  vessels  which  have  come  laden  with  the  fabricks  of 
Europe,  to  take  back  the  growth  of  the  primeval  forests.  The 
craft  now  met  with  in  this  part  of  the  river  are  principally  square 
rigged  vessels  of  the  largest  size,  employed  in  the  timber  trade. 
From  1200  to  1500  arrive  annually  at  the  port  of  Quebec.  After 
passing  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Charles  River,  a  road  may  be  traced 
leading  through  the  pretty  village  of  Beauport,  and  amidst  farms 
and  beautiful  orchards,  to  the  celebrated  falls  of  Montmorenci. 
At  a  distance  this  magnificent  cataract  appears  like  a  motionless 
streak  of  snow  upon  the  precipitous  bank  of  the  river ;  but  now 
we  are  a  abreast  of  it,  and  behold  the  mighty  torrent  projected 
with  incredible  velocity  over  the  perpendicular  rock,  250  feet 
into  the  St.  Lawrence,  acquiring  a  fleecy  whiteness  as  it  falls  ; 
while  the  sun  producing  a  brilliant  coloured  rainbow  at  its  base 
adds  a  charm  to  the  snow  like  effulgence  of  the  falling  torrent. 
This  cataract  is  decidedly  the  greatest  natural  curiosity  in  the  vici¬ 
nity  of  Qiiebec.  It  is  about  100  feet  higher  than  the  celebrated 
Niagara  Falls,  and  has  been  pronounced  by  many  to  be  more 
picturesque  and  beautiful.  On  a  hill  close  to  the  Falls  is  a  house 
which  was  formerly  the  residence  of  the  late  DuJce  of  Kent — it  is 


36 


now  the  residence  of  Peter  Patterson,  Esq.,  proprietor  of  extensive 
sawmills  in  the  vicinity.  The  lovely  island  of  Orleans  19  miles 
in  length,  and  about  5  in  breadth  here  divides  the  greai  river  into 
the  North  and  South  Channels,  the  upper  part  covered  with 
noble  forest  trees,  while  cultivated  fields  and  beautiful  gardens  slope 
down  to  the  water’s  edge  at  some  points,  while  others  present¬ 
ing  high  perpendicular  banks.  At  Ause  and  Maraud,  an  enor¬ 
mous  vessel  called  the  Columbus  was  launched  in  1824 — it  was 
3700  tons  register,  and  carried  4  masts.  The  next  year,  another 
enormous  ship,  the  Baron  Renfrew,  was  launched  here,  these 
being  constructed  with  the  view  of  taking  them  out  to  England, 
and  saving  the  duty  on  the  lumber,  of  which  they  are  composed. 
This  object  was  however  defeated,  as  it  was  decided  that  a  voyage 
was  first  to  be  made  out  of  England.  The  Columbus  returned  to 
this  country,  and  was  wrecked  on  her  way  out,  while  the  other> 
was  lost  on  the  coast  of  France,  on  her  voyage  home. 

The  St.  Lawrence  rolls  its  immense  volume  through  an  ex¬ 
tended  channel  of  full  twenty  miles  in  width,  and  the  shores  on 
the  north  bank  gradually  increase  in  elevation,  and  covered  with 
the  forest,  present  a  wild  and  rugged  appearance.  We  are  now  in 
sight  of  Mount  Ton  and  Cape  Tourment,  bold  promontories,  ris¬ 
ing  to  the  height  of  2000  feet.  Grosse  Island,  30  miles  below 
Quebec,  is  a  quarantine  station.  All  vessels  from  sea  stop  here  as 
they  pass  up.  It  is  provided  with  a  Hospital,  and  a  Catholic 
church.  Crane  Isle,  a  fertile  spot,  is  passed — and  Goose  Island, 
owned  by  the  nuns,  and  cultivated  as  a  farm  by  tenants.  And 
now  the  Pillars,  a  group  of  rocky  isles,  on  one  of  which  a  light 
house  is  erected  ;  and  a  floating  light  marks  the  intricate  and 
dangerous  channel  of  the  Traverse.  The  scenery  increases  in 
interest  ;  the  vast  river,  looking  like  the  opening  to  the  ocean ; 
the  lofty  shores,  studded  with  cheerful  residences,  while  hill 
above  hill  and  mountain  above  mountain  rises  up  in  the  dis¬ 
tance.  Near  St.  PauVs  Bay,  65  miles  from  Quebec  is  the  Isle 
Aux  Coudres,  {Isle  of  Filberts,)  which  received  its  name  from 
Jaques  Cartier,  on  account  of  the  profusion  of  these  delicious 
nuts  which  he  observed  on  landing.  The  bold  round  peak  we 
see  is  called  Goose  Cape,  and  now  we  come  to  the  well  culti¬ 
vated  settlement  of  Mai  Bay,  or  Murray  Bay,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Mai  Bay  river.  It  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  the  descendants  of  the 
highlanders,  engaged  in  Wolfe’s  campaign,  who  settled  here 


36 


and  intermarried  with  the  Canadians.  The  water  here  being 
perfectly  salt,  many  families  from  Quebec  visit  Mai  Bay  for  the 
purposes  of  sea  bathing. 

Continuous  ranges  of  hills  and  mountain  scenery  can  now  be 
seen  in  every  direction.  The  grand  and  lofty  mountain  peaks 
of  Cape  Eagle  and  Cape  Salmon,  here  come  into  view,  and 
including  the  noble  river,  whitened  with  hundreds  of  ships, 
its  variegated  islands,  the  numerous  shoals  of  white  porpoi¬ 
se,  which  frequent  these  waters,  together  with  scores  of 
seals  showing  their  heads  above  the  water  in  all  directions, 
with  now  and  then  a  whale  scattering  the  smaller  fry  as  he  ap¬ 
proaches  ;  altogether  form  the  varied  and  startling,  as  well  as 
the  most  sublime  and  beautiful  scene  imaginable — such  as  can¬ 
not  be  met  with  in  any  other  part  of  America,  and  probably  not 
on  the  globe. 

The  Mississippi  is  but  a  low,  sluggish  creek,  compared  to  the 
noble  and  majestic  St.  Lawrence.  The  Missouri  and  Ohio  are 
but  tiny  streams  compared  with  some  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
St.  Lawrence.  The  Hudson  is  but  a  drop  in  the  bucket,  a 
rill,  winding  its  way  through  a  small  farm  or  meadow,  compared 
with  that  immense  flood  and  almost  boundless  ocean  of  fresh 
water  poured  into  the  Atlantic  through  the  Gulf  of  the  St.  Law¬ 
rence. 

We  are  now  140  miles  below  Quebec,  and  steering  our  course 
for  the  gap  in  the  stupendous  cliffs  on  the  north  shore.  This  is 
the  mouth  of  the 

SAGUENAY, 

And,  although  a  mile  wide,  it  appears  narrow  when  compared 
with  the  mighty  St.  Lawrence,  which  at  this  point  is  considera¬ 
bly  more  than  25  miles  in  width.  Yet  the  Saguenay  is  one  of 
the  most  important  tributaries  of  the  great  river  ;  its  volume  of 
water  is  immense,  and  the  depth  and  force  of  its  current  is  so 
sensibly  felt  at  its  confluence  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  that  for  a 
distance  of  several  miles,  vessels  are  obliged  to  yield  to  its  influ¬ 
ence.  It  is  decidedly  the  largest  river  east  of  the  Alleghany 
Mountains,  the  St.  Lawrence  excepted.  From  the  inky  blackness 
of  its  waters,  and  the  strange,  wild,  and  romantic  character  of  the 
scenery  along  its  banks,  it  may  be  considered  unquestionably  the 
most  remarkable  river  on  this  continent.  Whilst  we  are  approach¬ 
ing  the  lofty  portals  of  this  mysterious  stream,  a  brief  description 
of  the  region  from  whence  it  derives  its  source,  will  better  enable 
the  reader  to  form  a  proper  estimate  of  this  great  v/onder  of  nature. 


37 


In  an  immense  valley,  forming  part  of  the  territory  belonging 
to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  about  42  leagues  north  from 
the  St.  Lawrence,  is  the  beautiful  Lake  of  St.  John.  Its  form 
is  nearly  circular ;  its  diameter,  about  30  miles,  and  it  serves  as 
a  great  natural  reservoir,  into  which  12  rivers  and  many  smal¬ 
ler  streams  discharge  their  waters.  The  Saguenay  is  the  only 
outlet  by  which  this  vast  collection  of  water  finds  its  way  to  the 
St.  Lawrence.  Its  scenery  is  of  the  wildest  and  most  startling 
description  through  its  whole  length,  which  is  about  130  miles 
from  Lake  St.  John  to  Tadousac  Bay.  The  first  half  of  its 
course  lies  through  a  wilderness  of  hills  covered  with  the  pine, 
the  fir,  and  the  spruce,  and  numerous  and  formidable  rapids 
render  the  navigation  hazardous  except  to  experienced  canoe- 
men.  But  below  Chicoutimi,  which  is  68  miles  from  its  mouth, 
it  is  navigable  for  the  largest  vessels.  From  Ha !  Ha !  Bay, 
downwards,  the  passage  of  its  waters  is  through  solid  moun¬ 
tains  of  sienite  granite,  which  seem  to  have  been  split  asunder 
by  the  upheavings  of  an  earthquake,  thus  forming  an  immense 
canal  with  banks  of  perpendicular  rocks,  towering  up  to  1500 
or  2000  feet  above  the  water,  which  is  about  150  fathoms  deep 
nearly  the  whole  distance.  Its  depth  at  different  points  has  never 
been  ascertained  ;  it  has  been  plumbed  with  a  line  of  330  fathoms, 
or  1980  feet,  and  that  too  immediately  at  the  base  of  the 
cliff,  and  no  bottom  could  be  found.  The  power  of  language  is 
inadequate  to  describe  this  great  specimen  of  nature’s  handi¬ 
work,  nor  is  it  possible  to  convey  to  the  reader  any  conception 
of  it,  by  adducing  any  other  river  scenery  as  a  simile— for  no¬ 
thing  like  it  can  be  found  in  North  America. 

“  1  can’t  describe  it  though  so  much  it  strike, 

Nor  liken  it — I  never  saw  the  like.” 

Mr.  Charles  Lanman,  a  talented  writer  and  artist,  who  lately 
made  a  tour  through  lower  Canada,  thus  speaks  of  the  Sague¬ 
nay. — “Imagine  for  a  moment,  an  extensive  country  of  rocky, 
and  thinly  clad  mountains  suddenly  separated  by  some  convul¬ 
sion  of  nature,  so  as  to  form  an  almost  bottomless  chasm,  vary¬ 
ing  from  one  to  two  miles  in  width  ;  and  then  imagine  this 
chasm  suddenly  half  filled  with  water,  and  that  the  moss  of  cen¬ 
turies  has  softened  the  rugged  walls  on  either  side,  and  you  will 
have  a  pretty  accurate  idea  of  the  Saguenay.” - “And  ge¬ 

nerally  speaking,  these  towering  bulwarks  are  not  content  to 
loom  perpendicularly  into  the  air ;  but  they  must  needs  bend 


38 


over,  as  if  to  look  at  their  own  savage  features  reflected  in  the 
deep.  Ay  ;  and  that  word  deep  but  tells  the  simple  truth  ;  for 
the  flood  that  rolls  beneath  is  black  and  cold  as  the  bottomless, 

pPt. - Awful,  beyond  expression,  1  can  assure  you,  is  the 

sensation  which  one  experiences  in  sailing  along  the  Saguenay, 
to  raise  his  eye  heavenward,  and  behold  hanging  directly  over 
his  head,  a  mass  of  granite,  apparently  ready  to  totter  and  fall, 
and  weighing  perhaps  a  million  of  tons.  Terrible  and  sublime 
beyond  the  imagery  of  the  most  daring  poet,  are  these  clifis  ; 
and  while  they  proclaim  the  omnipotent  power  of  God,  they  at 
the  same  time  whisper  into  the  ear  of  man,  that  he  is  but  as  the 
moth  which  flutters  in  the  noontide  air.  And  yet  is  it  not 
enough  to  fill  the  heart  of  man  with  holy  pride  and  unbounded 
love,  to  remember  that  the  soul  within  him  shall  have  but  com¬ 
menced  its  existence,  when  all  the  mountains  of  the  world  shall 
have  been  consumed  as  a  scroll  7” 

The  tourist,  whilst  ascending  the  Saguenay,  and  passing 
along  the  base  of  these  mountain  cliffs,  whose  rugged  summits 
seem  to  penetrate  the  blue  expanse  above,  is  oppressed  by  a 
sense  of  loneliness  and  desolation.  When  he  raises  his  eyes  to 
the  vast  height  of  the  broken  and  mis-shapen  masses  which 
overhang  and  threaten  momentarily  to  overwhelm  him,  the 
story  ('f  the  Titans  seems  to  be  realized,  and  it  appears  to  him 
as  if  they  had  succeeded  in  this  wild  and  primeval  portion  of 
the  globe,  in  heaping  Ossa  upon  Pelion,  and  Olympus  upon  Os¬ 
sa.  Even  when  the  bright  sun  lights  up  each  rocky  pinnacle, 
or  fir-crowned  height,  and  tips  with  brilliancy  the  snowy  foam- 
caps  of  the  waves  ;  and  small  light  fleecy  clouds  hang  midway 
up  the  moss-covered  precipice,  as  if  they  were  the  guardian  spi¬ 
rits  of  the  place  ;  and  the  salmon,  shining  like  molten  silver,  as 
they  leap  into  the  air  after  their  tiny  prey  ;  and  the  balmy  air, 
laden  with  the  perfume  of  wild  flowers,  salutes  his  nostrils  ;  and 
while  the  warm  atmosphere  of  summer  tints  every  object  with 
couleur  de  rose— if  even  at  such  a  time  as  this,  the  gigantic  and 
everlasting  hills  produce  a  sensation  of  awe — imagine  what 
must  be  the  feelings  of  the  solitary  voyageur  in  his  bark  canoe, 
when  overtaken  by  the  storm,  as  he  floats  on  the  bosom  of  this 
wild  river,  shut  in  on  both  sides  by  precipitous  walls  of  granite, 
and  cutting  off  all  hope  of  shelter.  A  sweeping  wind  rushes 
suddenly  through  the  chasm,  accompanied  by  heavy  pattering 
rain  ;  darkness  closing  in  above  like  a  pall,  turns  the  already 


39 


leaden  coloured  waters  to  the  hue  of  ink.  Heavens  !  what  a 
flash  of  bright  lightning  darts  out  from  the  palpable  darkness, 
bringing  into  sadden  view  the  ghastly  and  spectral  forms  of  the 
rugged  cliffs — and  now  the  thunder  peals  forth  with  such  a 
deafening  crash,  that  loose  boulders  and  masses  of  rock  come 
leaping  and  plunging  into  the  startled  wave — every  rock  and, 
cavern,  and  distant  mountain  take  up  and  repeat  the  wild  echoes, 
whilst  the  constant  flashes  of  the  vivid  lightning  reveal  the  hor¬ 
ror  stricken  traveller  on  his  knees  in  the  canoe,  his  head  bowed 
in  prayer,  and  although  paralyzed  with  fear — yet  trusting  to 
him  alone  who  can  put  forth  his  hand  to  save  at  that  awful  mo¬ 
ment. 

But  see  !  the  clouds  are  breaking  up ;  the  storm  is  abating  ; 
the  roar  of  the  thunder  is  more  subdued,  and  is  dying  away  in 
the  distant  range  of  mountains;  the  seals  disport  themselves  in 
the  sparkling  waves  ;  the  white  porpoises  in  shoals  are  throw¬ 
ing  up  the  glittering  spray  in  their  uncouth  gambols  :  the  sun 
once  more  tints  the  landscape  with  burnished  gold ;  the  air 
purified  by  the  electric  current  is  fresh  and  elastic,  and  nature 
reassured  seems  more  beautiful  and  joyous  than  ever. 

We  hope  the  kind  reader  will  excuse  us  for  leaving  him  so 
long  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  whilst  we  have  been  hum¬ 
bly  endeavoring  to  describe  the  general  features  of  this  singular 
river,  under  the  different  aspects  of  sunshine  and  gloom.  We 
will  now  resume  our  office  of  Pilot  and  Cicerone^  and  point  out 
the  various  objects  of  note  as  we  ascend  the  river  to  Chicoutimi. 
To  the  left  is  Tadousac  Bay^  which  is  one  of  the  Kings  posts 
or  stations  for  trading  with  the  Indians.  It  comprises  several 
stores,  <fcc.,  a  chapel,  and  one  dwelling  house.  These  objects, 
situated  on  a  terrace  about  50  feet  above  the  water,  including  a 
flag  staff  and  some  cannon,  and  the  mountains  rising  up  abruptly 
in  the  rear,  form  a  very  pleasing  object  in  the  picture.  Here  are 
extensive  salmon  fisheries.  Looking  ahead,  we  have  a  magni¬ 
ficent  view  of  the  river  in  perspective,  in  which  a  round  moun¬ 
tain  peak,  called  Tete  du  Boule,  is  a  prominent  feature.  The 
river  now  inclines  to  the  north  for  a  few  miles,  but  soon  turns 
again  to  the  west ;  being  in  many  places  3  miles  in  width,  and 
its  depth  is  profound  until  we  arrive  at  the  bar,  60  miles  from  its 
mouth.  Nature,  in  her  wildest  freaks,  has  been  evidently  fash¬ 
ioning  the  mountains  and  rocks  into  the  most  whimsical  and 


i 


40 


fantastical  shapes,  and  objects  of  the  most  startling  description 
now  follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession.  The  T  wo  Profiles, 
are  strong  outlines  on  the  rocks,  several  hundred  feet  above  the 
water,  and  strongly  resembling  the  human  face.  The  St.  Louis 
Islands,  a  rocky  group,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Marguerite  river, 
are  passed.  And  soon  we  come  into  view  of  two  tremendous  mass¬ 
es  of  rock,  called  Eternity  Point  and  Cape  Trinity,  rising 
from  the  water’s  edge  to  the  height  of  nearly  2000  feet — and  so 
abruptly,  that  ships  of  the  largest  tonnage  may  sail  so  close  to  their 
base,  that  the  hand  may  touch  them.  When  the  traveller  raises 
his  eyes  to  their  vast  height,  and  then  thinks  of  the  deep  abyss 
of  waters  rolling  beneath  him,  he  is  overcome  with  awe,  and 
shrinks  as  he  becomes  convinced  of  his  own  nothingness.  Trin- 
ity  Cape  has  3  peaks  on  its  summit  resembling  human  heads. 
On  the  right  side  of  the  Cape,  Trinity  Mountain,  several  hun¬ 
dred  feet  above  the  water,  is  situated  the  three  profiles ;  when 
viewed  from  the  left,  they  bear  a  strong  resemblance  to  the  hu¬ 
man  face  ;  and  the  other  huge  pile  of  everlasting  granite  is  well 
designated  by  the  name  of  Eternity  Point.  Sheltered  between 
these  beetling  and  over-hanging  cliffs,  is  a  delightful  recess  of 
the  shore,  called  Trinity  Cove, — its  retired  and  lonely  beauty, 
presents  a  striking  contrast  with  the  towering  grandeur  of  the  rest 
of  the  scene.  Further  still  we  come  to  Statue  Point.  Here  a  rock, 
bearing  a  striking  similarity  to  the  human  figure,  formerly  stood 
in  a  niche,  far  above  the  water.  The  figure  has,  however,  top¬ 
pled  from  its  base,  and  is  hid  in  the  bosom  of  the  deep.  A  little 
beyond  this.  Tableau  Rock  shoots  up  perpendicularly  from 
the  waters  edge,  to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet.  We  are 
now  passing  Grand  Bay,  or  Ha-ha-bay,  as  it  is  known  by  the 
habitans.  It  is  supposed  that  it  gained  the  latter  appellation 
from  the  first  voyagers,  who,  on  suddenly  beholding  what  they 
conceived  to  be  a  new  channel  for  the  river,  exclaimed  Ha-ha ! 
It  forms  an  excellent  harbor,  in  which  the  largest  ships  of  war 
might  ride  with  safety,  and  is  destined  no  doubt  to  be  the  prin¬ 
cipal  seat  of  trade  in  this  northern  district.  Chicoutimi  is  the 
next  object  claiming  our  attention  ;  here  is  a  King’s  Post  and 
trading  Factory.  It  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Chi¬ 
coutimi  River,  and  consists  of  several  large  buildings  used  as 
stores.  A  venerable  church,  which  was  built  by  the  Jesuit  La- 
brosse  in  1727,  stands  in  the  centre  of  a  grassy  lawn,  surround' 


41 


ed  by  shrubbery.  Missionaries  come  every  year,  in  the  months 
of  June  and  July,  to  minister  to  the  spiritual  wants  of  the  isola¬ 
ted  inhabitants ;  and  by  their  endeavors,  the  Indians  in  the  set¬ 
tlement  have,  in  a  great  measure,  abandoned  the  use  of  “  Fire 
water ;  and  have  become  orderly  and  decent  compared  with 
other  scattered  remnants  of  their  race.  But  they  are  all  a  de¬ 
graded  and  a  down-trodden  people — their  bold  spirit  of  indepen¬ 
dence  has  been  crushed  by  the  white  man,  and  the  lines  of  Dry- 
den  can  no  longer  apply  to  them — 

- “As  free  as  nature  Jfirst  made  man, 

When  wild  in  woods,  the  noble  savage  ran.” 

Beyond  this  point  civilization  ends ;  and  the  savage  wilder¬ 
ness,  and  the  primeval  forest,  stretchout  to  Hudson’s  Bay, bear¬ 
ing  no  signs  or  traces  of  life,  save  the  family  marked  trail  of  the 
Indian  hunter. 

Into  this  wild  region,  where  constant  impediments  to  our  pro¬ 
gress  present  themselves,  and  grievous  privations  have  to  be  en¬ 
dured,  we  will  not  invite  the  reader.  The  curtain,  therefore, 
falls. — Our  romantic  trip  is  ended. 


6 


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TESTIMOIIALS. 


Irving  House,  New  York,  Nov.  1st.,  1849. 
Mr.  Wm.  Burr — 

Dear  Sir, — I  have  witnessed  your  Moving  Mirror  of  the 
Lakes,  the  Niagara,  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  Saguenay,  now 
on  exhibition  at  the  Minerva  Rooms,  with  the  greatest  pleasure. 
For  fifteen  years,  I  have  navigated  these  lakes  and  rivers,  and 
am  perfectly  familiar  with  all  the  objects — the  Rapids,  Islands, 
and  Cities — represented  on  your  painting.  I  award  to  your 
beautiful  picture  the  palm  of  excellence,  as  a  perfectly  truthful 
and  correct  delineation  of  these  sources  of  navigation. 

Yours  truly, 

THOS.  MAXWELL. 

Former  Commander  of  the  Royal  Mail  Steamer  Gildersleve, 
since  of  the  Steamer  Canada. 


Neio  York,  Nov.  7,  1849. 

Having  been  laboring  as  a  Missionary  of  the  Reformed  Dutch 
Church  for  three  years  past  among  the  Thousand  Islands  of 
the  River  St.  Lawrence,  and  being  familiarly  acquainted  with 
the  scenery  on  that  grand  and  majestic  stream,  it  is  with  plea¬ 
sure  I  certify  to  the  accuracy  of  Mr.  Burr’s  Mirror,  now  exhibit¬ 
ing  at  406  Broadway,  New  York  City.  The  representation  of 
Brockville  by  moonlight  is  surpassingly  beautiful,  while  the  ra¬ 
pids,  fishing  vessels,  rafts,  with  some  of  the  inhabited  islands 
and  a  floating  population  in  their  unique  costume,  is  true  and 
exceedingly  picturesque. 

REV.  JEROME  A.  DAVENPORT. 


44 


ISew  York,  Nov.  im,  1849. 

Mr.  William  Burr — 

Dear  Sir, — Having  visited  your  “  Mirror  of  the  Lakes”  I 
with  pleasure  testify  to  its  accuracy.  1  have  resided  in  the  Sa¬ 
guenay  country  many  years,  (being  in  the  fur-trading  business 
previous  to  its  occupancy  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,)  and 
next  to  beholding  its  sublime  scenery,  is  a  visit  to  the  transfer 
on  your  canvas.  I  am  also  acquainted  with  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  in  fact,  all  the  objects  which  illustrate  and  enliven  your 
“  Mirror  and  the  superb  scenery — unparelleled  in  the  world — 
which  is  so  faithfully  delineated  by  you,  should  cause  your 
“  Mirror  of  the  Lakes  ”  to  be  visited  by  all.  As  far  as  I  am  ac¬ 
quainted,  nothing  could  exceed  your  correct  description  or  con¬ 
vey  a  more  accurate  impression  of  this  vast  and  little  known 
region.  I  am,  sir. 

Your  ob’t  servant, 

MOULTON  BULLOCK. 

Johnson-street,  Brooklyn. 


OPINIONS  OF  THE  PRESS. 


From  the  Neio  York  Albion. 

BURR’S  MIRROR  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

Panoramas  have  been,  almost  without  exception,  caiicatures  as 
portraits  of  places,  and  beneath  contempt  as  works  of  art.  This 
one  we  strongly  incline  to  believe  exceedingly  correct,  and  we 
know  it  to  be  eminently  beautiful  in  an  artistic  point  of  view.  It 
would  be  superfluous  to  write  an  article  about  the  geographical 
position  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  that  great  outlet  of  the  Great  Wes¬ 
tern  Lakes,  the  varied  interest  attaching  to  the  localities  it  waters 
in  its  course,  and  the  celebrity  of  its  principal  points.  These  are 
well  known  to  most  of  our  readers,  and  might  be  to  all,  without 
any  attempt  of  ours  to  play  the  school-master.  We  have  only  to 
do  with  the  picture,  which  is,  as  a  whole,  altogether  unrivalled — 
an  assertion  that  we  make  without  any  fear  of  contradiction. 

For  the  convenience  of  unrolling  and  managing  the  square  acres 
of  canvas  employed,  the  exhibition  is  divided  by  the  fall  of  a  cur¬ 
tain  into  half  a  dozen  parts,  giving  the  spectator  about  two  minutes 
breathing  time  between  each.  It  is  otherwise  continuous,  the  eye, 
by  a  kind  of  pictorial  license,  gliding  from  one  interesting  point  to 
another,  and  jumping  over  the  intermediate  space.  Without  this, 
an  excursion  from  Buflalo  to  the  Saguenay  River,  would  be  un  peu 
trop  fort.  We  have  varying  effects  of  weather,  season,  and  time  of 
day ;  sunlight  and  moonlight,  storms  and  calms,  summer  and  win¬ 
ter.  So  we  have  the  varieties  of  vessels  peculiar  to  the  waters  we 
pass  through,  from  the  balks  of  timber  rafted  down  stream  to  be 
converted  into  shipping,  up  to  the  ships  themselves.  The  rafts, 
canoes,  boats,  and  steamers,  are  admirably  done  ;  the  ships  being 
passable.  The  still  waters  throughout  are  charmingly  rendered, 
and  in  many  places,  the  troubled  stream  is  no  less  faithfully  repre¬ 
sented,  The  utmost  care  has  been  taken  to  give  the  exact  tints  of 
the  water,  where  they  are  considered  characteristic  of  the  locality ; 
the  same  minute  attention  being  paid  also  to  the  local  land  tints, 
whereby  the  labor  of  the  whole  has  been  greatly  increased  and  'ts 
faithfulness  proportionably  augmented.  In  the  rough  sketches  that 
we  saw  last  year,  we  remember  noticing  particularly  all  the  re¬ 
quisite  memoranda,  made  by  the  artists  on  the  spot  and  at  the  mo¬ 
ment.  Neither  must  we  forget  to  give  them'great  credit  for  the 
carefulness  and  skill  they  have  shown  in  their  perspective  ;  in  some 
of  the  town-views  this  is  really  remarkable. 

The  plunge  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  at  Niagara,  is  boldly  given, 


46 


and  effective  ;  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  the  Suspension  Bridge. 
On  emerging  from  the  Niagara  River,  the  pretty  little  village  of 
that  name  pleased  us  much,  as  a  bit  of  good,  quiet,  unpretending 
Art — nothing  in  the  subject,  but  everything  in  the  treatment.  Pass¬ 
ing  Hamilton,  we  must  especially  commend  the  bit  of  landscape 
painting  shown  in  the  highlands  to  the  right  of  Sir  A.  McNab’s  ba¬ 
ronial  residence,  which  is  represented  in  the  back-ground.  The 
view  of  Toronto  is  excellent,  and  really  valuable,  inasmuch  as  it 
shows  the  City  from  the  Lake,  previously  to  the  last  disastrous 
fire.  Port  Hope  Light-house  in  a  storm,  is  cleverly  done,  as  are 
some  pretty  island  groups  between  that  place  and  Kingston.  Kings¬ 
ton  itself  is  also  very  nicely  painted,  and  the  Thousand  Isles  are 
handled  with  a  picturesque  boldness  and  spirit  worthy  of  their  ro¬ 
mantic  celebrity.  Brockville,  by  moonlight,  is  charming  ;  and  Og- 
densburgh,  seen  in  perspective,  is  one  of  the  neatest  views  of  the 
kind  in  the  whole  exhibition.  The  various  rapids  between  Pres¬ 
cott  and  Montreal,  are  treated  with  consummate  skill;  that  of  La- 
chine,  with  the  wreck  of  the  Steamer  Dawn,  being  a  perfect  mas¬ 
terpiece  of  effect.  The  approach  to  Montreal,  and  that  portion  of 
the  city  containing  Bonsecours  Market,  with  Mount  Royal  in  the 
background,  deserve  special  commendation.  The  race  of  the 
Steamers  Montreal,  Lady  Elgin,  Quebec,  and  John  Munn,  here¬ 
abouts,  is  also  very  spirited.  There^  is  great  boldness  as  well  as 
skill  exhibited  in  the  evening  tints  and  brilliant  sky  under  which 
wo  pass  Three  Rivers,  near  which  place,  if  we  remember  rightly, 
an  enormous  raft  is  a  curious  feature  in  the  scene.  But  we  must 
hurry  on  to  Quebec,  seen  by  rise  of  sun,  with  its  Citadel  in  strong 
rays  of  light,  and  a  deep  shade  resting  on  the  lower  town — all  very 
artistic,  and  not  inferior  to  any  other  portion.  The  Falls  of  Mont¬ 
morency  are  capitally  painted,  especially  the  glen  on  the  left  of 
them,  and  thrown  back.  The  high  mountain  of  St.  Ann  and  St. 
Paul’s  Bay,  should  also  be  commended. 

Thus  hastily  descending,  we  are  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay 
River,  to  which  the  last  roller  is  exclusively  devoted  ;  pity  is  it  that 
we  have  almost  exhausted  our  vocabulary  of  praise,  for  on  the  ho¬ 
nor  of  an  impartial  critic,  t/iis  Saguenay  is  loorth  all  the  rest  put 
together.  The  rocky  sceneiy  of  the  lofty  mountains,  that  are  cut 
through  by  this  magnificent  stream,  are  given  with  an  air  of  truth 
and  vigor  that  really  astonished  us  ;  and  we  believe  much  the  same 
feeling  was  conveyed  to  the  minds  of  those  present  with  us. 

But  we  must  not  allow  ourselves  to  hammer  out  this  eulogium  to 
any  greater  length.  Exactly  a  year  ago,  in  noticing  some  sketches 
for  this  work,  we  observed,  “  Mr.  Banvard  has  given  a  striking 
proof  of  American  enterprise  ;  we  trust  Mr.  Burr  will  do  as  much 
for  American  taste  and  skill.”  He  has  done  so  signally,  and  we 
trust  he  will  be  rewarded.  Whatever  success  he  may  meet  in  New 
York,  we  can  ensure  him  a  good  reception  in  London,  if  he  go 
there. 


We  were  at  the  Minerva  Rooms  last  evening  to  see  Burr’s 
Moving  Mirror,  embracing  the  most  life-like  views  of  the  Niagara 


47 


River,  its  Islands,  the  Falls,  Whirlpool,  Suspension  Bridge,  Lake 
Ontario,  the  Thousand  Islands,  the  St.  Lawrence,  Montreal,  Quebec, 
the  picturesque  Falls  of  Montmorency,  closing  with  the  most  beau¬ 
tiful  and  amazingly  sublime  scenery,  of  the  mighty  and  mysteri(»us 
Saguenay.  Having  travelled  some  years  since  over  nearly  the  en¬ 
tire  route,  we  were  curious  to  see  how  far  memory  had  proved  true 
to  by-gone  days,  and  we  are  compelled  to  admit,  that  we  more  than 
once  forgot  our  identity,  in  the  marvellous  and  faithful  transcript, 
which  past  like  magic  before  our  bewildered  gaze.  The  artistic 
merit  of  this  noble  triumph  of  American  skill,  is  undoubtedly  su¬ 
perior  to  any  other  painting  of  the  kind  in  this  country.  It  being 
an  opaque  picture,  it  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  taste  of  the  people. 
We  recognised  many  striking  scenes,  with  the  utmost  distinctness. 
We  stood  some  ten  year’s  ago  on  the  summit  of  Brock’s  Monu¬ 
ment,  on  a  cold,  bleak  day,  and  gazed  over  the  battle-field  and  snow 
covered  hills,  that  lost  their  outline  in  the  distant  clouds,  and  distant 
waters — we  stood  again  last  night,  in  fancy,  on  the  same  spot,  with 
emotions  strangely  youthful.  The  whole  scene  is  enlivened  by 
beautiful  music,  executed  by  the  celebrated  Professor  Van  Der 
Weyde,  on  one  of  T.  Grilbert  &  Co’s.  Aeolian  pianos,  which  seems 
peculiarly  adapted  to  awaken  the  soul,  to  the  enjoyment  of  the 
sublime  and  beautiful.  The  stupendous  peaks  of  the  Saguenay, 
are  a  fitting  idenda  to  the  picture,  and  elicit  the  most  profound  ad¬ 
miration  from  all  who  have  witnessed  them ;  indeed,  they  surpass 
all  we  ever  dreamed  of,  in  the  way  of  the  sublime  and  the  grand. 
More  geography  of  the  frontier,  may  be  learned  at  the  Minerva 
Rooms  in  a  couple  of  hours,  than  could  be  obtained  elsewhere  in 
the  same  number  of  months. — N.  Y.  Sun. 

The  Saguenay. — We  paid  a  visit  yesterday  to  Burr’s  Mirror,  and 
were  agreeably  surprised  at  its  accuracy  in  detail,  and  its  fine  ef¬ 
fect  as  a  whole.  The  picture  of  the  wonderful  Saguenay — the 
most  astonishing  river  on  the  globe — stealing  along  the  eternal  soli¬ 
tude  of  its  fathomless  gulf,  between  banks  that  tower  far  above  the 
clouds — is  worth  a  hundred  times  the  price  of  admission. 

The  proprietor  selected  objects  of  curiosity  and  scenes  of  the 
most  thrilling  interest,  innumerable  modes  of  artistic  combination, 
vales  on  vales  of  Emerald,  and  mountains  on  mountains  of  Ame¬ 
thyst,  streams  on  streams  of  Silver,  are  not  huddled  confusedly 
together,  but  stretched  out  into  a  comprehensive  and  grand  picture. 
The  Saguenay  rolls  along  like  a  dream  through  her  hushed  bed  to 
the  gulf.  The  observer  will  see  that  all  these  lakes  and  rivers  form 
a  perfect  chain  of  water  communication.  The  “  Thousand  Islands  ” 
force  us  into  the  belief  that  the  Book  of  Nature  has  but  one  page, 
and  that  is  beauty,  wafted  to  us  from  some  enchanted  land  of  love¬ 
liness  and  light.  The  great  segment  of  the  circle  of  the  world  is' 
seen  in  this  picture.  Yesterday  afternoon  crowds  were  seen  leaving 
the  door,  as  all  the  seats  were  secured  at  an  early  hour.  Persons 
would  do  well  to  procure  tickets  in  advance. —  Tribune. 

“  Burr’s  Moving  Mirror  of  the  Great  Lakes,  Niagara,  St 


48 


Lawrence,  and  Saguenay  Rivers.” — We  took  occasion  a  few  eve¬ 
nings  since  to  visit  this  Moving  Mirror,  now  on  exhibition  at  the 
Minerva  Rooms,  406  Broadway,  and  were  amply  repaid  for  our 
trouble. 

Having  passed  over  nearly  the  whole  of  the  route  described, 
some  four  years  since,  we  were  prepared  to  discover  what  justice 
the  artists  had  done  to  their  subject,  and  what,  if  any  errors  they 
had  committed  to  canvas.  And  (after  an  evening’s  inspection,)  we 
cheerfully  accord  our  testimony  to  its  fidelity,  for  the  color  of  the 
waters,  the  face  of  the  country,  the  tints  of  the  flowers,  the  hues 
of  the  foliage  and  shrubbery,  the  exact  condition  of  the  public 
buildings  and  private  residences,  are  all  so  true  to  nature  that  we 
almost  imagined  that  we  were  taking  our  tour  over  again. 

Nobly  have  the  artists  acquitted  themselves  in  bringing  out  a 
work  of  so  much  merit,  and  one  that  will,  we  think,  be  appreciated 
by  a  discerning  public. 

We  s^y  to  one  and  all  of  our  readers,  that  Mr.  Burr,  the  proprie¬ 
tor,  richly  merits  your  patronage,  and  those  of  you  who  have  not  as 
yet  seen  this  great  work  of  art,  should  by  all  means  take  the  earliest 
opportunity  of  visiting  the  Minerva  Rooms. — Merchant' s  Ledger. 

Burr’s  Moving  Mirror. — In  these  days  of  Panorama  ma¬ 
nia,  of  course  there  are  daubs  exhibited,  dignified  with  the  title  of 
“  panorama,”  which  are  but  frauds  upon  the  public,  and  are  calcu¬ 
lated  to  affect  seriously  the  interests  of  those  whose  exhibitions  are 
really  meritorious.  As  it  is  the  duty  of  the  press  to  expose  these 
impositions,  so  it  is  their  duty  to  direct  public  attention  to  exhibi¬ 
tions  which  ai'e  deserving  of  patronage  ;  and  we  now  refer  particu- 
cularly,  to  what  is  termed  “  Burr's  Moving  Mirror,"  and  pro 
nounce  it,  in  all  respects,  highly  deserving  patronage,  and  we  trust 
that  no  one  wall  fail  to  visit  it,  because  it  will  not  only  afford  con¬ 
siderable  gratification,  from  the  views  represented,  but  viewing  it 
as  a  work  of  art,  that  feeling  cannot  fail  to  be  enhanced.  The  trip 
from  Buffalo  to  the  Saguenay  river,  exhibits  views  of  Niagara,  the 
Horse  Shoe  and  American  Fall,  the  Suspension  Bridge  ;  and  emerg¬ 
ing  from  the  Niagara  river,  you  pass  Hamilton,  obtain  a  fine  sight  of 
Toronto  ;  of  Port  Hope  Light-house  in  a  storm — and  the  group  of  is¬ 
lands  be  tween  it  and  Kingston.  You  then  pass  in  succession,  Kings¬ 
ton,  Brockville,  (a  beautiful  moonlight  view)  Ogdensburgh — the  va¬ 
rious  rapids  between  Prescott  and  Montreal,  of  which  city,  the  paint¬ 
ing  is  peculiarly  spirited,  and  the  three  rivers.  You  then  pass  to  Que¬ 
bec,  is  seen  at  sunrise  ;  the  Falls  of  Montmorency,  thence  descend  to 
the  Saguenay  river  ;  the  representation  of  which  forms  one  part  of 
the  exhibition,  and  in  all  respects  is  one  of  the  grandest  in  point  of 
scenery  we  have  ever  witnessed,  and  is  delineated  in  a  masterly 
style.  But  it  is  quite  impossible  by  any  description  to  afford  an  idea 
of  the  attractions  of  the  exhibition,  and  we  can  only  inform  those 
who  fail  to  visit  this  panorama,  that  they  lose  a  very  great 
treat. — Evening  Mirror. 


ERRATA. — On  page  17,  third  line  from  the  top,  read  2.5,000 
for  2,500 ;  and  seventh  line  read  Governor  for  General  Simcoe. 


